Any write-up on installing IE sway bars?

#1

Well…my son took took the plunge to get the IE sway bars for his car and they’ve arrived. Nice looking parts. We’re pretty good with a wrench. No instructions from IE. I searched this forum for any installation write-up, could not find one. Is there a decent write-up that you guys have found elsewhere? Any tips? Thanks…

#2

It’s an easy install. Only thing worth mentioning is that the sway bar fastening points on the rear trailing arms have to be reinforced. IE sells the kit if you’ve not already done that. A local muffler shop can weld the tabs on for you in 5min. Then hit them with spray paint and drive on.

#3

My IE bars had a reinforcement plate that mounted through the trunk floor (2 bolts on each side), where the bushings mount.

#4

You and I are describing 2 different things.

#5

The end-links attach to the trailing arms at the factory tabs/holes, however these tabs are too weak to stand the stresses of stiffer bars, which is why Gress is advising to reinforce. This hardware is not part of the IE kit.

Separately, the IE mounting brackets that attach to the body use the factory position, which consists of a slotted upper tab, and a 10mm bolt for the lower.

The reinforcement places you speak of go in the trunk, above the bracket. Probably the easiest way to fit this is to bolt the bracket (sans bushing and bar) temporarily into the factory location, square it up good against the trunk floor, and mark/drill the forward (I think) hole.

After drilling the first, you can use the reinforcement plate as a template, working inside the trunk, to locate and drill the 2nd hole. Note you will want to remove the trunk insulation in the vicinity of the plate, even if you leave the rest in place.

Another thing to watch for with the IE bars is that it’s possible for the end-links to “come down” the wrong way, and bind, bend, or snap the heim link threaded bits. Some trial and error in fitment, and careful observation the first time or two you lower the car to the ground will usually prevent sadness at this stage. This situation is hard to describe, but everyone who has done it or seen it knows the problem well.

#6

Thanks for the advice guys. I have heard about the reinforcement tabs. We have a welder and can install them. Appreciate the advice on the alignment of the end links so they do not bind up and snap. Any photos of them properly installed will be most helpful.
I did find a write up also on E30tech.com…

#7

I think the problem is exacerbated by having the hieim shafts too short and/or the bar set too soft. Both of these affect the geometry when the car is jacked up.

I think you want the threads as long as you can w/o letting the bar contact the trunk floor when the car bottoms, but of course this is hard to measure statically.

#8

I find it extremely inconsiderate that IE sells parts with no instructions. If I’m forking over good money for parts, throw in a piece of paper explaining how to put them in. When I called them, they told me to Google it. Its really dicky.

Ray

#9

Hey - just want to get back with you guys that we did install them and it went smoothly. We pulled out the Miller 130 and tacked the reinforcement triangles onto the top of the tab. Just a little tight working in there with brake lines nearby.
We ordered the locks and not quite sure where to place. Put them on the front bar on the outside of each bushing so the bar doesn’t slide side to side. Need to check with IE if that’s the right spot for them.
Aiming to run Thunderhill late August so need to finish some other items up - safecraft system install and battery cutoff.
Thanks for the inputs.