Another rear subframe thread!

#1

Hi Everyone,

Bought a car for Spec E30 (87 sedan) a few months back and just got the rear subframe off the car. Doing all the work myself, so I wanted to make sure that, while I have the subframe off the car, I do just about every reasonable upgrade / reinforcement within the SE30 rules as I’d like to avoid getting back in here anytime soon.

I’d like to get feedback as to whether there’s other “while I’m in there” things I should be doing or if something I’m planning on doing is outside of the rules. Thanks!

Here’s my current plan (and list of things I’ve purchased):

1 TC Kline Monoball RSMs
2 VAC “race style” reinforcement plates (bolt in)
3 AKG Aluminum subframe bushings
4 AKG Aluminum differential bushing
5 AKG 75D RTABs
6 AKG Rear Swaybar reinforcement (body) (weld in)
7 AKG Rear Swaybar reinforcement (trailing arm) (weld in)
8 3.73 LSD
9 Stainless steel brake lines
10 Wheel bearings
11 Rebuilt calipers w/ brass guides
12 Rotors
13 Bilstein shocks/H&R springs, of course

On top of this, I didn’t originally think it would be legal, but it seems that 9.3.8.2 says that the camber/toe adjustment kit is legal (something like http://store.bimmerworld.com/rear-trailing-arm-cambertoe-adjustment-kit---e30-z3-318ti-p889.aspx). Can someone confirm?

I’ve got a whole separate list for the front, which I’m sure I’ll start a thread on later when I get there. :slight_smile:

Anything I’m missing?

I’m not sure how the camber/toe plates go on. Do they replace the existing RTA mount points? If not, is it worth adding reinforcement plates to the the RTA mounts? Also, I saw a kit adding reinforcement for the diff mount points. I’m guessing these are not worth it given the stock power output.

Any feedback would be appreciated, thanks!

Som

#2

the rear camber/toe kits are weld in, you have to enlarge the stock holes to match – yes you very much want some version of those (machined ones are stronger then ones with bent tabs)

personally I wouldn’t go with a aluminum diff mount

#3

Been running the three aluminum mounts for the sub frame for 10 years. No problems. NOTE…You want the suspension to move, not its mounting points.

#4

Sounds like there’s really nothing else, then?

If I get those BW adjusters (or is there a “known best” brand?), should I still reinforce the rear trailing arm mounting points? Or are they pretty solid as they are? I’ve only seen one company selling those, so I’m guessing it’s not that common for the trailing arm brackets to crack.

Som

#5

It seems the current “known best” brand is the new Ireland Engineering serated adjusters, but I think I have still heard of those moving on people after a session on track. I am still in the camp of if the car aligns okay in the rear, then go without adjusters as you will see many people have had issues with keeping the adjusters properly adjusted.

#6

If those are moving, is it because the brackets are jumping teeth / rounding out the serrated areas?

Could coating the brackets with some kind of rubber help keep them from slipping like this? Or is there some other kind of slipping happening that I’m not getting?

Som

#7

We also offer weld in alignment brackets here:
http://store.garagistic.com/ocart/E30-Rear-Subframe-Camber-and-Toe-Correction-Kits