Alternative to Ireland rear toe kit?

#1

A shop installed the Ireland rear toe adjusters. They’ve moved on me at least 5 or 6 times now. Ruined a few weekends. The things just won’t stay still.

Are there any alternatives that WILL stay put when you’ve adjusted them?

#2

Have an alignment done and tack weld the adjusters in place.

#3

Do you have the standard or the posi-lock adjusters?

I have the posi-lock adjusters and have never had them move. I just tighten them down as tight as I can get them.

#4

That was my first thought, just have West End do a top-notch alignment then weld everything in place. But then when I get bumped again I’ll have to replace the whole control arm and adjuster, which defeats the purpose.

Allan it’s the ones with the two serrated plates and a simple bolt on the end. You can’t really locktite the thing because you don’t know when you’re done until it’s buttoned up and tightened.

#5

If you just tack them, you just need too grind off the tack to adjust.

I do not think that is necessary. You are just not tightening them enough. Although I have never used it, you can use locktite. It does not get hard that quick. Tighten them with a good size, 1/2" drive ratchet, as tight as you can, and they will not move.

#6

Thanks, I’ll give it another shot. Midnight Oil dealt with it the first three or four times it went loose, so I figured it was an equipment problem, since they know what they’re doing.

#7

Make sure the serrated parts are aligned. If one is off just one tooth it will not seat properly and might cause a problem. The nut side sometimes likes to spin.

#8

There’s several old threads that discuss this problems, and mechanisms to get the weld-on kits to stay put.

It’s not necessarily a matter of tightening the bolts more. I tightened my class 12 hardware so hard I was worried it was going to strip and it still didn’t hold.

Either come up with a mod that holds your toe adjuster in place, or go back to an OEM non-eccentric toe adjuster. With some careful work the non-eccentric toe adjuster will hold your toe exactly where you want it. Because toe doesn’t change as the rear suspension droops, you can easily do this with the car up on a lift.

#9

Oh my God this saves me so much time to know.

That being said, the rear actually WAS straight. These new tires have raised letters and graphics and junk that was borking my measurements. Measured from the wheel and it appears to be pretty straight. Guess I’m still getting used to this string alignment shenanigans.

#10

Oh my God this saves me so much time to know.

That being said, the rear actually WAS straight. These new tires have raised letters and graphics and junk that was borking my measurements. Measured from the wheel and it appears to be pretty straight. Guess I’m still getting used to this string alignment shenanigans.[/quote]
There’s people that will disagree with me on this mind you, but I tested the shit out of it so I stand by it.

#11

I disagree. If we had a pure trailing arm it wouldn’t, but we have a semi-trailing arm.

Here’s someone else who agrees with me and has done the math: calculation

#12

I disagree. If we had a pure trailing arm it wouldn’t, but we have a semi-trailing arm.

Here’s someone else who agrees with me and has done the math: calculation[/quote]
I figured this would come up. The curve shows lots of delta, but it’s a curve that shows 90deg of movement. Our suspension droop is limited by the shock. I don’t know what the real range of movement is, but I’d ballpark it at 20deg. That means we’re looking at around 0.8deg of “total toe” in the graph. But what we need is absolute toe so it’s 0.4deg per wheel.

Assuming a rim with a radius of 7.5", 0.4deg works out to 1.27mm of toe change, not much, but also not zero. The way most people measure toe, 1.27mm is at about the noise threshold.

I measure rear toe by shooting a laser from the rear wheel past the front hub. This significantly exaggerates the toe because a small amount of toe at 7.5" is a whole lot of toe 8’ away. In this case I was measuring the laser line on the far garage wall, prob 16’ away. I played with measuring toe over and over again and altho there was a bit of spread of the datapoints, at the end of the tests my conclusion was that if there was a change of toe when the rear wheel drooped it was so small that I couldn’t reliably detect it. I’d have been able to detect 1mm of toe really easily so I concluded that if the toe was changing, it was smaller than 1mm, and therefore could be ignored.