Adjusting GC plates

#1

I’m having a hard time adjusting the plates, I can’t move them. Anybody has this issue? Solutions?

#2

with the car on the ground, you should be able to move them be of course loosening the bolts, and then prying them around w/ a screwdriver. Have you tried prying them?

#3

On the ground? I’ve done it off the ground in my other car.
Yeah, I tried prying with the loose bolts.
It seems they move only to "positive" camber, but not "negative". Maybe the alignment is wrong?

#4

BETO wrote:

[quote]On the ground? I’ve done it off the ground in my other car.
Yeah, I tried prying with the loose bolts.
It seems they move only to "positive" camber, but not "negative". Maybe the alignment is wrong?[/quote]maybe the spring perches are already hitting?

#5

And how do you fix the perches?

#6

You don’t. Once the perches hit, that’s the max. negative camber you can legally achieve.

Sasha

#7

Indeed, the GCs (probably all of them) are spring perch limited. I hit the strut tower, backed off a bit, and wound up w/ about -3.0 degrees. Make sure your spring hats arent binding on the tower as well.

#8

I think the alignment tech hit max neg camber at -2.5 and "centered" or "zeroed" the plates then, so there isn’t more to adjust?
Shouldn’t the plates be zeroed at oem specs, and then adjust negative camber as needed?

#9

BETO wrote:

[quote]I think the alignment tech hit max neg camber at -2.5 and "centered" or "zeroed" the plates then, so there isn’t more to adjust?
Shouldn’t the plates be zeroed at oem specs, and then adjust negative camber as needed?[/quote]You want the max neg. camber and that is achieved by moving the mounts in till the perch hits the strut tower…

#10

nasaregistrar wrote:

[quote]BETO wrote:

[quote]I think the alignment tech hit max neg camber at -2.5 and "centered" or "zeroed" the plates then, so there isn’t more to adjust?
Shouldn’t the plates be zeroed at oem specs, and then adjust negative camber as needed?[/quote]You want the max neg. camber and that is achieved by moving the mounts in till the perch hits the strut tower…[/quote]
Yeah, I know, but the strut is not moving pass the zero or cl mark on the camber plates. It’s moving to positive, but not negative. According to the alignment specs I’m at -2.4 at that point, I guess that’s the maximum.
I will need the tech to readjust the specs, and put them back to oem specs an zeroed it on the plate and then adjust camber as needed at the track.
Do you guys find yourselves adjusting camber that often, or different adjustments on each wheel?

#11

BETO wrote:

Once you adjust the plates to achieve max camber then I can’t really see any point in adjusting them for less camber, unless you are still driving the car on the street.

Seems to me that fixed race camber plates would be a more economical choice if the rules would allow them.

#12

If the center of your shock shaft is approx 23mm away from the edge of the ‘circle’ on top of the shock tower you are done. No more camber. A factory spring perch is too big to move any further.

I went until the perch hit and then backed it off a few mm’s and tightened everything down.

#13

robweenerpi wrote:

[quote]If the center of your shock shaft is approx 23mm away from the edge of the ‘circle’ on top of the shock tower you are done. No more camber. A factory spring perch is too big to move any further.

I went until the perch hit and then backed it off a few mm’s and tightened everything down.[/quote]
Wow, that’s it? I got used to my MZ3 plates and was able to adjust a lot more, and I thought the suspension between these two cars were the same or very similar.
Going to BW this weekend? I’m leaving tonight.