accusump?

#1

Anyone using these?

http://www.accusump.com/acc_products/acc_units.html

#2

Yep, I run the 3qt high pressure model (the big boy).

#3

How is your hooked up?

Filter adaptor?

Electric switch or manual?

Ric

#4

I got the sandwich oil filter adaptor. Plumbed the line through the firewall hole that used to have the A/C lines going through it and mounted it in the backseat area which is pretty much the only place the 3qt high pressure model fits. I use the 30-40 psi electric valve (I really should have gotten the 20psi one instead).

Despite the addition of the Accusump, I still need to add baffling to the oilpan.

#5

Is anyone having oil supply issues with a spece30. I have never noticed any issue…but I have no oil Press gauges…

Ric

#6

Below is a quote from a post I’d made over on Bimmerforums in a discussion about oil pan baffling / aux oiling systems / etc… I know its not ‘good’ to have the pressure dropping like this, especially at high rpm, but what I don’t know is how ‘bad’ it is. My car is running fine & I would like it to stay that way. But I also don’t want to spend a boat load of $$ on these things if they aren’t really necessary.

The M20, stout as it may be, doesn’t do a very good job of oil-management during hard cornering. For instance, on turn #2 at Willow Springs (long sweeping right hander) my gauge normally drops from ~60-70psi on the straights down into the high-teens. Similarly, when driving Buttonwillow CC-wise, my pressure drops low enough around the buttonhook (very tight left) to momentarily pop on the factory low oil pressure warning light - which is set at, what, 10 psi?

#7

The location of the stock OP warning light sucks. Who has the balls to look down at it mid-corner?

Prior to getting the accusump, I rigged up an OP warning light and mounted it to my A-pillar along with the VDO pressure gauge. What an eye-opener that was. There were a bunch of times when the light would be on for a good 5+ seconds and the pressure gauge confirmed it.

The addition of the accusump did help, but the light still comes on from time to time. It is especially bad when there are two back to back long sweepers (e.g. T1-2 at Thunderhill) since the first will drain the accusump and there isn’t time to recharge it for T2.

This isn’t the only problem either. M20s are known to pool oil in the head during high RPM operation which doesn’t help the oil starvation problem. There are known modifications (that are pretty cheap) to fix the problem. Since it really isn’t a performance enhancement, it would be nice for it to be allowed in the rules.

#8

traqrat wrote:

[quote]I got the sandwich oil filter adaptor. Plumbed the line through the firewall hole that used to have the A/C lines going through it and mounted it in the backseat area which is pretty much the only place the 3qt high pressure model fits. I use the 30-40 psi electric valve (I really should have gotten the 20psi one instead).

Despite the addition of the Accusump, I still need to add baffling to the oilpan.[/quote]

Do you have a plan or source for your baffles? Just curious, never looked at the options before. I saw the fancy pan that someone posted somewhere else but that would not be SpecE30 legal I’m sure. Plus it was $1k!

#9

9.3.1.6.5 - Oil pans, pan baffles, scrapers, windage trays, and oil pickups are unrestricted.

It seems to me that this would be legal, though my car will continue to run baffle-less. I’ve heard a few stories of m20’s being toasted due to oiling issues, but not enough to cause me great concern. I just thought I’d check your the group’s thoughts on the Accusump thing, since I wasn’t familiar with how they work or if they’re worth getting.

#10

sdais wrote:

[quote]9.3.1.6.5 - Oil pans, pan baffles, scrapers, windage trays, and oil pickups are unrestricted.

It seems to me that this would be legal, though my car will continue to run baffle-less. I’ve heard a few stories of m20’s being toasted due to oiling issues, but not enough to cause me great concern. I just thought I’d check your the group’s thoughts on the Accusump thing, since I wasn’t familiar with how they work or if they’re worth getting.[/quote]

Yup, how about that? Damn, it’s a good thing the car is cheap! ; )

#11

Elephant1 wrote:

[quote][b]

Yup, how about that? Damn, it’s a good thing the car is cheap! ; )[/quote]

Seriously - an oil pan costing more than what many folks originally paid for their cars! Just doesn’t seem right…

#12

Elephant1 wrote:

[quote]traqrat wrote:

[quote]I got the sandwich oil filter adaptor. Plumbed the line through the firewall hole that used to have the A/C lines going through it and mounted it in the backseat area which is pretty much the only place the 3qt high pressure model fits. I use the 30-40 psi electric valve (I really should have gotten the 20psi one instead).

Despite the addition of the Accusump, I still need to add baffling to the oilpan.[/quote]

Do you have a plan or source for your baffles? Just curious, never looked at the options before. I saw the fancy pan that someone posted somewhere else but that would not be SpecE30 legal I’m sure. Plus it was $1k![/quote]

I am planning to make my own. The E30 M3 has a stock part which is a rubber flap that functions as a trap door. I’m going to fab up some baffling using some aluminum sheet and these flaps.

#13

…if you can post pics before final install…pls do! This is a growing concern on my part…thanks

#14

…would THIS be of any help?

http://www.crank-scrapers.com/prod01.html

#15

…would THIS be of any help?

http://www.crank-scrapers.com/prod01.html

#16

Opinions sought: Is it better to tie in an accusump through a sandwich adapter under the oil filter, or through a T-pipe into the output line of my oil cooler?

Thanks.

#17

Dan,
An adapter under the oil filter is probably better (well, its guaranteed to work correctly).

You need to look at how the oil thermostat for the front cooler works (inside the oil fitler housing). The ones in porsches close off both lines to the cooler when cool to prevent startup pressure spikes splitting the cooler. That prevents it from working on really cold days or to oil the motor before startup. Again, Im not sure how the E30 one works.

If you have the choice, make sure you plumb it after the filter. So, if a rod bearing lets go it doesn’t trash the accusump…

SMD

#18

Sandwich it is.

Next question: I have three choices for the electric pressure valve – for the pressure above which, the Accusump is filled, and below which, the accusump oils the engine:[ul][li] 20-25 PSI[/li][li]35-40 PSI[/li][li]55-60 PSI[/li][/ul]

Canton’s website says:[quote] You will want to choose an E.P.C valve setting that is below that normal engine pressure. This way when your engine is running normally the valve will allow your Accusump to accumulate oil pressure. Then when you engine drops below its normal pressure and the valve’s pressure setting it will discharge its accumulated oil in the Accusump. If unsure of your engine’s pressure it is best to choose the E.P.C valve with the lowest rating, the 20-25 psi valve.[/quote]

Any advice on which to go with?

BTW, what’s the normal operating pressure of an M20 (I haven’t had my oil press gauge hooked in, yet)? I assume it’s less than 45 PSI…

Thanks.

#19

My gauge shows around 60 psi or so under racing conditions (4k+ rpm).

How quickly do these things work on both dumping oil into the engine when pressure drops & refilling when pressure rises?

#20

Its actually pretty slow to recharge. My 3qt takes probably around 5 seconds to go from empty to full. The reason you really want to have baffling in addition to an accusump is that even though it charges up to whatever nominal oil pressure is, when it discharges, it only really delivers oil at like 20psi.