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I’m ready to order & install an accusump. Looking for advice on setup.
What problem are you trying to solve with an Accusump? If you are worried about oil starvation when cornering a crank scraper would be a cheaper solution.
I’ve blown up 2 engines now. Both at Mid-Ohio after the sweeping left-had turn #1. The 2nd had a crank scraper.
I now want every precaution possible.
Tom
I can see why you want every precaution, but am not convinced that Accusump is better than a crank scraper for your need. Roebling Road’s T3 is a long, long fast 4th gear left-hander, that makes you feel like a ball on a string, hoping the little kid doesn’t “let go” at the wrong moment. Basically, Roebling T3 is several times longer and a good bit faster than M-O T1
Prior to a crank scraper, my E30 would drop from normal 50+ PSI down to 16-19. After adding a scraper but no other changes, the pressure would drop only marginally, to perhaps 40-45.
Perhaps there are other reasons why your motors blew up there unrelated to oil pickup?
Do you have an oil pressure gauge to verify loss of pressure in that corner?
My car does not have a crank scraper and I am into the third season without incident. (yes, I’m knocking on wood) :blink:
Tom, I gotta ask, were the motors used with unknown mileage?
No, unfortunately I do not have an oil pressure gauge. It’s next on the list.
The first engine had about 150,000 miles & 2nd unknown.
Seriously, I’ve decided for sure to install the accusump, so looking for advice on placement & other details of installation. Any help appreciated.
many thanx,
tom
Hey Tom,
I agree that an Accusump is relatively cheap insurance. I’ve heard a lot of opinions about whether M20s have an oil starvation issue in long left-hand turns and what can be done to solve it. After I spun a rod bearing, I installed a crank scaper and a 3 quart high-pressure Accusump – haven’t had any issues since. Whether a crank scraper alone would solve the issue, I can’t say but if I were in your shoes having gone through two motors I’d be doing everything possible to avoid the hassle again.
I’ll try to dig up my invoice from Canton and send you a copy, but you can also just give them a call and they’ll guide you through it. I used the electric valve so I didn’t have to plumb a manual valve within reach of the driver. (I have heard of a few people having issues with the electric valve but it’s been fine for me for 3+ years.) Get their oil filter sandwich adapter plate, it makes it easy to just plumb the output of the Accusump into that. The 3 qt high pressure unit is pretty huge so the only place to mount it is in the back seat area, unless you plan on never having a passenger seat.
If you have any other questions, let me know.
Hope this helps,
-Joe
P.S. Sorry I haven’t responded to your other e-mail – work has been crazy!
Thanx abunch, Joe. I may bug you with a an e-mail or 2 as I go thru this.
Hope to see you at Summit in Aug
Tom
For you guys that are blowing motors, are you using synthetic oil?
Here is a story of old timer wisdom. Per Gasman’s comments it should be ignored. For those who are interested, read on.
20 years ago when 944s and E30 M3s were involved in Firehawk showroom stock racing, both models were prone to spun rod bearings allegedly due to oil starvation in long corners. Accusumps were not allowed. The ticket then was to switch to synthetic oil. The theory is that the residual synthetic oil that is in the bearings can withstand the extra load and heat for the few seconds that the pump is starving. As soon as the car gets through the long sweeper, the components are hit with fresh oil and the cycle starts all over again. It is fact that conventional oils break down and “coke” at lower tmeperatures than synthetic oils (while the current Syntec ad where the Charger blows it’s motor on the dualing dynos scenario is total crap, the theory is sound). So, if the conventional oil begins to coke in the sweepers, it creates wear everytime the car goes through the sweeper and and the coke (AKA sludge) accumulates in the system eventually restricting, possibly even clogging the filter and pick up thus creating a death spiral for the engine. If the oil is coking anywhere in the engine, sooner or later the bearings are going to fail. It can be argued that they are going to fail sooner or later with synthetic oil too. The synthetic merely prolongs the life of the bearings.
At that time (1990) the guy who owned the 944 I drove did blow a motor (I happened to be driving 
) on conventional oil (Castrol 20W50 was the rage then). After the rebuild he switched to synthetic oil, Mobil-1 at the time, had good results and never blew another motor.
Further, when I converted a 944 to a race car 10 years ago I heard that a trans cooler was required in the Florida heat. As I was shopping around inquiring to other 944 racers one fellow told me if I used Amsoil gear lube I didn’t need a cooler. He told me of his story that he cooked a gearbox with Swepco in one 24hr race at Moroso. The race used to be held over new years eve so the ambient temp was relatively cool. The next year they switched to Amsoil in another used box (not rebuilt), ran the entire 24hrs without a cooler and had no problems. During a subsequent preventative teardown he said the box looked brand new inside. That story caused me to research Amsoil and I have used it ever since.
I am not implying that Amsoil is the cure all but I am convinced that it does help and can increase the meantime between rebuilds vs. conventional oil. I personally do not have an Accusump nor a crank scraper and knock on wood my 150,000 mile engine is fine. Of cousre after this disertation I’ll probably blow the engine the next time out. Murphy’s law.
The point is, for the extra few bucks synthetic costs, it is one more piece of cheap insurance. FWIW.
Don
This just in - Directly off Amsoil’s “Hotwire” e-newsletter
Powerful New Product Line for Racers
AMSOIL is pleased to introduce a new series of Dominator® Synthetic 5W-20, 10W-30 and 15W-50 Racing Oils. The three new premium synthetic racing oils are specially formulated to withstand the rigors of high-performance and racing applications.
Racing and high-performance engines subject motor oil to elevated RPM, high temperatures and shock-loading. AMSOIL Dominator Synthetic Racing Oils were developed to address these extreme conditions and provide high-quality AMSOIL performance and protection for a variety of racing applications. All three Dominator oils feature the same additive package, providing maximum durability in multiple viscosities. Their shear-stable formulation was engineered to provide maximum horsepower without sacrificing engine protection. Dominator Racing Oils provide straight-grade protection in a multi-grade formulation.
A detailed feature story can be found in the August Action News.
First I have heard of lighter weight racing oils. I may try some