1987 Fuel Tank - Replace or update

#1

I know there are a dozen posts on this, but I don’t think anyone has actually answered the core question.

My 87 dual fuel pump tank is dead and rusty. The pumps are weak and suck.

Everyone says to update the tank to the newer 63L single fuel pump style. That looks like a total pain. You have to put the new larger tank in (is it a direct bolt in?), all new lines with different routing, etc. The job just looks like a disaster.

Far easier would be to get a new 1987 tank, two new fuel pumps, clean the crossover tube, blow out the fuel lines, and just put back in exactly what came out. Has anyone actually done this, and if so, can you pump the tank all the way down?

I am also considering just putting in a real 20 gallon or so fuel cell in the trunk with an in-tank pump and just running it. At least then there would be no rust and no pickup issues.

Thoughts on all of this?

-Scott

#2

The guys believe that the advantages of the low mounted fuel tank is worth keeping it and not doing a fuel cell. I bought a repopped old style fuel tank for $187 shipped and I bought a new in tank pump, and I plan to remove the original and replace it this weekend. I plan to replace all rubber fuel lines and clean the crossover tube. I know that Jim has reconditioned a gas tank, but I think for the price it is worth just getting a repop.

#3

BigKeyserSoze wrote:

Jim Robinson got frustrated enough with his fuel tank a couple yrs ago that he put a fuel cell into the spare tire well. I don’t think that he would encourage you to go that route. As I understand it, the effort was hard and expensive.

#4

I have completely replaced an '87 tank/pumps/filter/damper/xover tube with brand new parts. On track, I can pretty much run it empty. Cost me several hundred dollars, but took all of 4 hours to do. It was fairly simple and worth it in my opinion to not have starvation issues going uphill or hard cornering.

#5

Not to steal this thread but what is the exact symptoms of fuel starvation? This past race weekend at Thunderhill Race track my 1987 would fall flat on its face through out the track, tack would stay up but no acceleration then after a second or so vroom and off we go! Changed out fuel pressure regulator, ECUx2, air mass sensor, full tank and still did it. When I built the car 1.5 years ago new pumps and filter were installed and the tank was very clean. Any thoughts?

#6

winduck wrote:

My thought is fuel starvation. Also check that CPS is tight and 1mm from harmonic balancer, and check that CPS wire isn’t getting beat up by a pulley.

There’s a number of guys that have fought this sort of symptom long and hard. Ultimately finding obscure electrical problems.

#7

OriginalSterm wrote:

I want to be clear that I am understanding what you did. You replaced a 1987 tank, the kind people generally do not like, with new versions of the same kind of parts that came off the car, a new old style 55l tank, two new fuel pumps, new damper, new crossover, and the car worked fine? How far down will it pump (meaning how many gallons does it leave in the tank?)

Thanks in advance for your help.

-Scott

#8

And where did you order all of the parts please?

#9

Like I said, I can almost run it empty without issues on track. 1/8 of a tank or less I’d say. I got all the parts, except the tank, from Pelican. I got the tank from the Radiator Connection through their Ebay store.

The reason I stayed with the '87 setup was because the rules stated as such at the time. If I were to do it again, I’d go with the later style setup for the same or less money.

#10

I there a detailed description anywhere on changing to the late model fuel tank and pump etc. is it straight forward or is there a lot of retrofitting. I’m going to replace or retrofit by next race… any thoughts!

#11

Swapping to the late model tank is pretty straight forward. When you get the tank make sure to also get the fuel filter mount. The only thing you’ll have to fiddle with is the fuel level sensors. The early tank has a single sensor and the late tank uses two sensors connected in series. You can get the connector and a bit of the wire from a wrecked car and splice it in, but for the gage to read correctly you’ll also have to swap out the gage in the cluster.

#12

jlevie wrote:

Thanks, are all the fuel lines the same or is rerouting necessary. I read somewhere the return line is involved in some siphon action related to transferring fuel from one side of the tank to the other? So other than the gauge, sending unit and electrical wiring that need to be fiddled with, is it plug and play with the late model components.

#13

For simplicity sake, I think I am going to stick with the 1987 tank that is in the car, just a new one. All of the websites just call it a 325E tank. Nobody shows a 325i or 325is tank for a 1987. Is the 325E the same tank? It shows to be the same size, etc.

-Scott

#14

Same tank.

#15

You can get a new tank from AutoZone or Advance Auto Parts for a little over $200. If new fuel pumps don’t take care of my starvation issues, I think that’s my next step. Now that I have bought new fuel pumps for my '87, I’m locked into the old style tank.