Wheel studs coming out

#21

Vorshlag says 80ft-lbs with anti-seize. I’d been doing 82 without.

#22

csrow wrote:

[quote]It took me 25 minutes to take 4 studs out from a hub that I replaced.

That’s with heating and using a breaker bar and a BFH. It really wasn’t worth the effort the save those 4 studs.

Just red loctite to 16 ft-lbs and letting it rest over night.[/quote]

Got all the front studs out over the last 2 nights using the double-nut method. One stud required torching to remove so thanks for that idea.

4 of my lug nuts remain on the (now removed) studs so tightly that I can’t remove them. Not that I really need to remove them but that indicates that the thread galling was pretty severe. Enough so that the galling has more grip then my vise can apply to the removed stud.

This has been a good learning point for anti-seize on lug nuts. If you tighten your lug nuts to 80 ft-lbs, but messed up threads account for, say 30 ft-lbs of that, then your lug nuts aren’t holding on to your wheels nearly as tightly as you think they are.

#23

TMS sells Dry Lube version studs. I have the black coated version and they are made by ARP.

#24

Have now replaced my front studs. A good learning point is that once you remove your old studs, be sure to chase the threads with a 12X1.5 tap. Otherwise your new studs will get gummed up on the old locktite and not want to go in all the way.

If you don’t chase the threads you end up busting your ass trying to get the studs in the last couple of turns. And you won’t necessarily succeed.