Towing advice needed!

#21

There are some excellent tips here. Thanks guys.

#22

My .02 cents. I have an enclosed trailer but its pretty much the same but the results are worse when you get it wrong. I pull with a Nissan Titan so its not a massive 1 ton diesel rig.

Weight Distributing Hitch - Worth the money for both open and enclosed. Lessens wear of two vehicle due to weight being properly distributed to the front of the tow rig and the axles of the trailer. They also come with very specific set up directions. Read them twice. Lots of measurement at all corers of both trailer and rig. Once set up properly its like my enclosed trailer is not even behind the truck. Even if you go with a non distributing hitch learn to set it up right, e.g tongue weight as stated earlier and get the trailer level. If its not level or close to it with proper tongue weight something is wrong.

Sway Controller - Its basically a friction bar that connects the trailer frame to the hitch. Helps in windy condition and when 18 wheelers blast by you on the highway. More helpful for enclosed then open.

Read your brake controller directions and set you trailer brake bias properly. Makes a world of difference when its done right with stopping properly.

Rear Tie Down - Shock Eyes for rear mounting points- Have done this on a few cars and it works great. Factory 3 works nice for e30.

Front Tie Down - I have an 89 and the factory points works great just behind the front wheels.

Use a lock on your ball latch. It cant come off and no one can remove it without a key.

Once its all set up paint all 4 wheel locations on the trailer so its fool proof moving forward loading and the wheel chock is a nice idea.

Cross your trailer chains when you hook to the rig. Its the law in many states and just a good practice in case it brakes away.

Test you breakaway batter before each trip if you have electric brakes. Most set ups have a test light when you pull the pin or use a volt meter if no light.

When you start out make a list of all that needs to be checked and its a lot. This thread covers all the important stuff that can hurt bad if it goes wrong. Use the list each time and double check everything before you drive. Then after the first 10 or more miles stop and check your straps. Its amazing how they can come loose as the car settles.

Take your time when towing for the first time. The trailer is real wide and you need a large birth for turns. Nothing cuts a tire faster than slamming a curb cutting a turn too close. Its easy to do and Summit has a few turns with rocks that kill many trailer tires on the way to the highway. You also need lots of room to slow down 9 or 10 thousand pounds of mass. Until it becomes second nature us visual cues looking forward to tell you where you trailer tires are so you don’t need to drive in your mirrors to see if you are crossing the center line. Windshield wipers work nicely on many trucks or hood body lines. Its will become second nature eventually. Toll Booths are narrower than you think. Be careful.

If your rig does not have extendable mirrors get extensions. Makes life much easier and also the law in many states.

You are now full vested in this silly hobby. Enjoy not retiring young. :slight_smile:

#23

mahoneyj wrote:

I have heard this before – and it is what I do. But I have never understood why it matters. Any explanation?

Steve D.

#24

Steve D wrote:

[quote]mahoneyj wrote:

I have heard this before – and it is what I do. But I have never understood why it matters. Any explanation?

Steve D.[/quote]
I’ve always crossed my safety chains and have their length adjusted such that they will cradle the trailer tongue should it become unhooked.

#25

jlevie wrote:

[quote]Steve D wrote:

[quote]mahoneyj wrote:

I have heard this before – and it is what I do. But I have never understood why it matters. Any explanation?

Steve D.[/quote]
I’ve always crossed my safety chains and have their length adjusted such that they will cradle the trailer tongue should it become unhooked.[/quote]

Yep that’s the reasoning. It should prevent the tongue from digging in if it comes loose. Sounds like a Myth Busters episode waiting to happen. Will it catch or not?

I live in PA so its the law. It would stink to drive though a state and have a State cop pull you over for that. Then they get to look everything over real close and you had just hope they are having a good day or you may have a bad day. :slight_smile:

#26

mahoneyj wrote:

[quote]jlevie wrote:

[quote]Steve D wrote:

[quote]mahoneyj wrote:

I have heard this before – and it is what I do. But I have never understood why it matters. Any explanation?

Steve D.[/quote]
I’ve always crossed my safety chains and have their length adjusted such that they will cradle the trailer tongue should it become unhooked.[/quote]

Yep that’s the reasoning. It should prevent the tongue from digging in if it comes loose. Sounds like a Myth Busters episode waiting to happen. Will it catch or not?

I live in PA so its the law. It would stink to drive though a state and have a State cop pull you over for that. Then they get to look everything over real close and you had just hope they are having a good day or you may have a bad day. :)[/quote]

I got pulled in PA while towing the lemons car home(trailer light connection came loose) The officer inspected how my trailer was hooked up very closely. I had my safety chains crossed, because that was how I was tought and was sent down the road with a warning. I was unaware that is was actually state law in PA.

Greg

#27

mahoneyj wrote:

[quote]
Once its all set up paint all 4 wheel locations on the trailer so its fool proof moving forward loading and the wheel chock is a nice idea.[/quote]

FWIW - I have one of those “yellow ball on a magnetic stick” things to help me hook up the trailer. But it also comes in handy when loading the car - I’ve got a paint mark on the trailer and I set the ball-on-a-stick on that. The front bumper of the racecar just nudges the stick when the car’s in the proper position on the trailer.