The Sydistik Ind. Spec E30 build

#8

That would be awesome!

[quote=“Ranger” post=70342][quote=“imagine02” post=70338]Thanks for the info.
According to Wiki, pre 87’s have higher compression and less hp & tq.
Have you guys seen an actual performance difference on the race track between the older and newer versions?
[/quote]
You’re confusing yourself.

I don’t know where you saw that info but maybe the reference to pre-'87 is either a 325e or the '85-'86 euro 325i. The US market 325i’s have no performance difference because no one wins the drag race to the next corner because of which side your coolant reservoir is on.

I’m pretty sure that the 325i’s for the US market were introduced in '87. That would mean that some of them were built in the last quarter of '86.[/quote]

Wiki didn’t specify if it was referring to just US or all countries about the compression and hp differences.
I read the pre 87 thing on some forum when I was doing a google search. Both sources aren’t very credible. haha

#9

I can’t spend a whole lot on an engine right now. Maybe $500 at the most.
I’m starting a new job soon though, so in a couple months I could probably afford a rebuilt one.

#10

Still looking for a good running engine.
Cash in hand!

#11

No longer need an engine.
Picked up a parts car yesterday.

89 325i
Auto transmission. I think that means it has a 4.10 LSD, so I still need an LSD for SE30.
Supposedly has a rebuilt head and the timing belt was replaced.
Body is pretty rusty. Otherwise I might have used this one for SE30.

#12

Awesome wing and I rocked those Borbets on my Corrado back in the day!

#13

I didn’t really pay attention to what the wheels actually were until I got it home. They are the right size for SE30, so that’s nice. Not sure on the offset yet though.
I plan on ripping the engine out soon. So far I got as far as taking the hood off. haha

#14

I’m in need of a single mass flywheel.

I have the donor engine pulled and am in the process of installing new timing components. Should be dropping it in pretty soon. Can’t wait to finally drive this car again! It’s been at least 4 years.

#15

You need to compare the pin out on the round connector on the firewall against the later model car wiring. The automatic car used a different pin for the ABS and the change can be made in the chassis harness rubber cover if necessary. The easy button will be to switch the ols motor harness to the new motor.

#16

Thanks, I wasn’t aware of that.

Picked up a good used single mass flywheel.
Now I need the front engine lift bracket that bolts behind the timing belt cover. Anyone know the actual name for that part or know the part number?

#17

There’s a place on ebay with a bunch that they’ve cleaned up. I believe they were about $700

Ray

#18

[quote=“imagine02” post=73855]Thanks, I wasn’t aware of that.

Picked up a good used single mass flywheel.
Now I need the front engine lift bracket that bolts behind the timing belt cover. Anyone know the actual name for that part or know the part number?[/quote]

Send me $5 to cover shipping and I’ll send you one. Paypal scott (at) gress (dot) org

#19

Thanks!

I’ve been working on the E30 a lot lately. Nothing I feel that’s picture worthy though.
Installed the 4.10 LSD from my parts car, new wheel studs, new 15mm spacers (puts the wheels at et15), new exedy oem clutch, Yoko S drive tires, and a bunch of maintenance things.

I’m hoping to have it ready to rock for the last local auto cross this year. Little over 2 weeks away.

#20

I’m not sure what to do about some of the differing components.

In this picture I have the I intake elbow and seta brake booster in the car.
[URL=http://s102.photobucket.com/user/imagine-02/media/IMG_20131012_1746442.jpg.html][/URL]

The I intake elbow has a port on it leading to the line from the brake booster, which then leads to the 2 throttle body ports on the right side.

The seta intake elbow does not have this port. The seta also doesn’t have a split line from the brake booster, so it only uses the bottom port on the throttle body.

Can I just plug the top port on the throttle body and the port on the intake elbow, so they aren’t being used?

Does this line lead to the port on the underside of the throttle body?
[URL=http://s102.photobucket.com/user/imagine-02/media/IMG_20131012_1746072.jpg.html][/URL]

How do you get the CSB off the drive-shaft? I have the 2 halves separated and the retaining clip removed. I just can’t get the CSB to slide off the shaft.

#21

My questions from the previous post have been figured out.

Now onto the new electric fan I picked up to replace the 2 OEM fans.
I would like to use the wiring from the aux fan, but only have the high speed function and also be able to turn it on manually with the AC button. Haven’t been able to find a straight forward write-up for this. Can I just chop the plug and wiring off the aux fan and wire it to my new fan without needing any extra components? I know I don’t want to include the OEM resistor, so I think I would merge the black and red wires. I read something about using a larger fuse too.

The fan I have:
http://www.jegs.com/i/QuickCar+Racing/635/60-034/10002/-1
I’m thinking 2500CFM should be more than enough.

#22

(click me)

Here’s a video of it idling. The exhaust rusted out over the years of sitting in the barn, so I just have open headers on it right now.



#23

Forgot how the hood release cable is routed in the engine bay. Can someone snap some pics? I know where it goes through the firewall.

#24

I think I read that you can ditch the cable for hood pins. That’s what I plan on doing. Simpler and less clutter.

Ray

#25

My A-pillar cage hoop got in the way of my hood pull release lever so I just cut the cable about 18" after the hood release catch, and ran the cable out through the front grill next to the driver’s side headlights, looped the end of the cable around a wire cable pull piece I found at the local ACE hardware, threaded the wire through a small aluminum cable stop, wrapped the looped piece and cable in duct tape. All good. Hood pins would certainly be more elegant and would save you some weight.

#26

Hood pins are the way to go. You only need 2 and you can maintain the stock motion/function of the hood. You only need to drill holes in the hood because there are already some conveniently placed holes up front near the headlights.

#27

This is still going to be a street car for a couple more years, so I would like to keep the factory hood release for now.
I’m replacing a broken one with a good one from my parts car. Problem is, I took it out of the parts car several months ago so I don’t remember how the cable is routed (specifically in the headlight area).

On another note.
Does the spec exhaust sound anything like this? I kinda like how my cobbled together exhaust ended up sounding.
[URL=http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m89/imagine-02/My%20E30/VID_20131107_141846.mp4][/URL]