The Paul Poore oil pan

#4

Ranger wrote:

[quote]
IMO, if cost was no object, the best possible solution would be the Metric Mechanic baffle (it does not add stack-height), the Paul Poore pan, and a beefy skid plate that would protect the pan. [/quote]

Hmmm, I think you mean the windage tray from Metric Mechanic; the MM baffle is welded to the OEM pan. The PP design looks like it works really well and I can appreciate the well thought out design. The Metric Mechanic solution (baffle and windage tray) as you know is much more simple, but hopefully performs equally well. I’ll find out in March…

#5

How much does this pan cost? I know I need to do something about my oil sooner rather than later, and I’d love to avoid installing a crank scraper, since I don’t plan on pulling the engine. I’m definitely very interested, since a bolt-on solution would be ideal.

#6

First, you don’t need a skid pan…you are not running dirt tracks:laugh: :laugh: Really, my car sits a couple of inches lower than the SE30 and I have not had problems.

One comment about the PP pan, I was having OP problems during braking (R compound tires, racing pads), OP would drop and come right back. I hope to have cured that with a surround for the oil pump that closes the sump on three sides, deepest on the front.

Price on pans was 550/exchange, which, after trying to build one a couple of years ago, is an extreme bargain…and it works. Chuck

#7

Thanks, Chuck. That is steep, but much cheaper than an engine rebuild. I’ll add it to my long list of future parts.

#8

FishMan wrote:

[quote]Ranger wrote:

[quote]
IMO, if cost was no object, the best possible solution would be the Metric Mechanic baffle (it does not add stack-height), the Paul Poore pan, and a beefy skid plate that would protect the pan. [/quote]

Hmmm, I think you mean the windage tray from Metric Mechanic[/quote]
You’re right. Good catch. I fixed it.

#9

beg to differ chuck. i had an off at sebring in jan in the drivegear car that chunked the paul poore pan. if you still don’t believe it, you are welcome to send me $550 and I will send you the busted pan :slight_smile:

#10

I’ve had a PP pan (and IJ scraper) on my car for a while and have a reasonable set of logged data from a fast response oil pressure sensor. The only times I’ve seen any drop in oil pressure are at corners ending high speed runs. In particular I see a slight drop in T1 at Roebling and T10A & T1 at RA. I suspect, since two of those are right hand turns, that what I’m seeing is oil “stacking” in the head. The drop isn’t enough to be anything to worry about, it is just a bit lower than would be normal for the engine speed at those points.

I don’t yet have a skid pan/plate, but I think something made of steel that is pretty beefy would provide a bit of peace of mind in the event of an off over the gators. I’ve been contemplating something that doesn’t seriously reduce airflow over the pan now that the rules allow alternatives to a 1/16" sheet of aluminum.

#11

I have a poor pan. I use no scraper or gasket. Just some good quality gasket maker and have no issues. I am not sure if it sits any lower then my stock pan.

Jim,
Do you run your oil level to the factory full point on the dip stick?

Andrew,
I would love to know if that TCMotorsports plate works. I would think it may need the bend closer to the front of the car since the pan protrudes further forward than stock. When I put my Factory3 plate back on I needed to rebend it about 4 or 5 inches closer to the front of the car to get it to clear the pan. I would like to switch to something stronger and allows some airflow.

Jason

#12

cwbaader wrote:

[quote]First, you don’t need a skid pan…[/quote]…and it is highly unlikely you will need harnesses.

[quote]Really, my car sits a couple of inches lower than the SE30[/quote]With our squishy springs, the ride height under full compression is probably pretty close.

Not to be contrary, of course… :wink:

#13

I would never contradict Steve, but I run softer front springs than the SE30 spec. And I will point out with the softer springs, the front of my car dips more that the SE30. I do, however, tend to stay on the track. Chuck

#14

yeah well, obviously you don’t need a skid pad when you are on track. this isn’t a stanceworks competition :stuck_out_tongue:

i run a poore pan no scraper in my car also. using the factory3 skid plate but would be interested in the TCMotorsports one if it affords more protection.

#15

cwbaader wrote:

[quote]… I run softer front springs than the SE30 spec.[/quote]Interesting. Do you use a relatively softer spring in the front to eliminate the inherent pushiness of the nose-heavy car?

#16

Started out with 400# and went to 300# to make the car turn. I run 500# rears. I am of the group that likes soft springs/stiff bars.

IMHO, on of the inherent problems with the SE30 setup is the lack of adjustablilty to compensate for different stiffnesses in different chassis. The original spring/shock package was chosen to have the car on the loose side (as I have been told) but a chassis without a good extensive cage or one with wreck damage (and a couple hundred pinch welds compromised) will certainly not handle the same as a undamaged/properly caged car. An adjustable front bar would certainly help, with more adjustment on the rear bar, also. My .02, Chuck

#17

mahoneyj wrote:

[quote]Jim,
Do you run your oil level to the factory full point on the dip stick[/quote]
I haven’t tried running with the oil level over the dipstick marks. I wanted to get a good data set at the normal level before seeing what would happen over full.

#18

Paul Poore told me to fill it to the bottom of the mark.

#19

Paul told me the pan would work fine at the lower mark as well. I still filed it to the full mark on the dip stick. It was only about one more quart of oil so why chance it was my thinking. Interesting Jim saw a bobble in pressure even to the full mark.

Jim,
It would be interesting to hear the details of you next data set at a different level.

Thanks

#20

Hey Andy -

Just got the PP Oil pan. How many quarts do you put in on a change with filter?

Christian

#21

With an oil cooler, I would start with 7 and have two extra handy. I still run a quart over on the dipstick. CB

#22

I think I use 7 quarts at my last oil change. I will have 8 on hand since I am not 100% sure it was 7 when I change it before the first race. I run it to the full mark on the dip stick.

#23

I ran a VAC baffle and 3qt Accusump in my e36 m3 and had NO op problems (2:10’s VIR). As a bonus with the Accusump, I could pre-oil before starting. The Accusump seems to me the best solution… agree?