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When using poly or aluminum subframe bushings if you trim the bushing on the side that faces the trailing arm bushing you can remove the nut and eccentric plate w/o dropping the subframe. That also provides better access to the nut. Starter wrenches or bent box end wrenches make it easier to adjust the trailing arm eccentrics and if you use aircraft 12 point nuts things get even easier.[/quote]
the 12-pt nuts… do you recall the size/thread? I have the AKG weld-ins. Thanks!
When using poly or aluminum subframe bushings if you trim the bushing on the side that faces the trailing arm bushing you can remove the nut and eccentric plate w/o dropping the subframe. That also provides better access to the nut. Starter wrenches or bent box end wrenches make it easier to adjust the trailing arm eccentrics and if you use aircraft 12 point nuts things get even easier.[/quote]
the 12-pt nuts… do you recall the size/thread? I have the AKG weld-ins. Thanks![/quote]
Match the size and thread to that of the bolts. I don’t know what AKG uses. If everyting is already installed, pull a nut from an inner bushging to get the size and thread.
Great tips in here. I think I am going to go with the TC subframe that comes ready to bolt in still.
Tut - You got something against reinventing the f*cking wheel? :laugh:
Good decision. If their subframe work is as good as their oil pan protectors, you won’t be disappointed. And their communication/user friendliness before and after the sale couldn’t be better.
re TC Motorsports subframe… Please, I’m not disparaging Carlos at TC - Great people.
But… We recently installed a complete subframe and can only achieve 2.3- camber.
We have been through it many times and still have a very limited range…
just sayin!
[quote=“PDS” post=56001]re TC Motorsports subframe… Please, I’m not disparaging Carlos at TC - Great people.
But… We recently installed a complete subframe and can only achieve 2.3- camber.
We have been through it many times and still have a very limited range…
just sayin![/quote]
Has anyone doubled-down with their setup? Using offset bushings (not the adjustable kind) + the eccentrics?
[quote=“PDS” post=56001]re TC Motorsports subframe… Please, I’m not disparaging Carlos at TC - Great people.
But… We recently installed a complete subframe and can only achieve 2.3- camber.
We have been through it many times and still have a very limited range…
just sayin![/quote]
Before I did my weld-in tabs… I found out my camber & toe and had the plates welded accordingly. My camber range is approx 1.4 to 2.9 neg, but I haven’t installed my H&R’s 
My toe is approx 1/4" both ways from 0. Found this doing much research before I dropped the sub.
[quote=“PDS” post=56001]re TC Motorsports subframe… Please, I’m not disparaging Carlos at TC - Great people.
But… We recently installed a complete subframe and can only achieve 2.3- camber.
We have been through it many times and still have a very limited range…
just sayin![/quote]What did Carlo say about it? I’d be shocked if he didn’t make it right for you.
If you can’t get over 3 degrees camber in the rear with the weld in tabs…check to see if the arm is bottomed on the inside camber adjustment. If it is, your rear arms are bent…a common occurrence on an e30. If you find the right alignment shop, they can rebend them for more camber. I can get almost 4 degrees on the left, but only 3.2 on the right (where I hit the wall at RA last July). CB
[quote=“cwbaader” post=56020]If you find the right alignment shop, they can rebend them for more camber.[/quote]7.6.1. All chassis/structural repairs, if performed, shall be in concurrence with factory procedures, specifications, and dimensions.
Here’s what the factory shop manual says about eccentric RTABs (aka silent blocks) on bent trailing arms:
Eccentric silent blocks could be installed to correct the rear axle toe deviation caused by summation of unfavorable tolerances. Important! Changes in alignment geometry caused by damage in an accident may never be “eliminated” with this measure.
For the record, I agree with the first two sentences of your post.
[quote=“Steve D” post=56004][quote=“PDS” post=56001]re TC Motorsports subframe… Please, I’m not disparaging Carlos at TC - Great people.
But… We recently installed a complete subframe and can only achieve 2.3- camber.
We have been through it many times and still have a very limited range…
just sayin![/quote]What did Carlo say about it? I’d be shocked if he didn’t make it right for you.[/quote]
Carlo has been very responsive and helpful. However, he is kind of at a loss as to why we’re not getting the range of adjustment expected. As Chuck has said, I’m leaning towards bent control arms.
Is there way to check for bent arms? We don’t see any visible signs.
[quote=“PDS” post=56023][quote=“Steve D” post=56004][quote=“PDS” post=56001]re TC Motorsports subframe… Please, I’m not disparaging Carlos at TC - Great people.
But… We recently installed a complete subframe and can only achieve 2.3- camber.
We have been through it many times and still have a very limited range…
just sayin![/quote]What did Carlo say about it? I’d be shocked if he didn’t make it right for you.[/quote]
Carlo has been very responsive and helpful. However, he is kind of at a loss as to why we’re not getting the range of adjustment expected. As Chuck has said, I’m leaning towards bent control arms.
Is there way to check for bent arms? We don’t see any visible signs.[/quote]
The degree of damage to cause this camber limit is probably too small to detect visually. The best approach might be to try different trailing arms.
Steve, somehow I knew you would find a way to disagree. You replace your arms, I’ll rebend mine. CB
I try to control myself, but when someone advocates something not permitted by the rules I feel an obligation to point that out lest some unsuspecting soul take an authoritative statement a gospel.
And Ranger, I only disagree with you when you are Rangering things up. 
[quote=“Steve D” post=56032]
And Ranger, I only disagree with you when you are Rangering things up. ;)[/quote]
That’s like saying a politician only lies when his lips move.
I pulled my subframe apart again. Yes, one more MFing time. I threaded my 3/4" bolt back into my subframe bushings and banged them out again. Pulled the diff and trailing arms off. Took a hard look at why I can’t get one of the eccentrics on and didn’t reach any conclusions. Repaired the threads on all 4 rtab bolts. This time when I assemble the subframe, the outboard bolts are going to point in towards the diff. This will put the outboard rtab nuts away from the subframe bushings, and therefore the nuts will be more accessible.
You never know when you may be in a hurry to get a nut off.
I might be on to something with my removable aluminum subframe bushings. Now that they are threaded for 3/4", you can R/R them all day. It remains to be seen if they install w/o slop.
Ranger, you’re only setting yourself up for another GoatF*@#! The outboard camber bolt orientation you are speaking of will not permit you to remove/service RTAs or bushings without complete removal of rear assembly. I’d think you’d prefer the flexibility of not being so tied in to one direction.
To access the nuts you’re concerned about, get a cheap 18mm wrench at Agrisupply and grind it down to about 3/16" - 1/8" thick. To get better access at the nut for real torquing, remove the left rear tire after snugging things in place - it let’s you get better access. The camber bolt didn’t move when I was really hefting on it.
Now that you’ve got your welded slot tabs in, you shouldn’t have any real reason to remove the whole rear subframe assy (unless you bend/break it).
rrr
Ranger, you’re only setting yourself up for another GoatF*@#! The outboard camber bolt orientation you are speaking of will not permit you to remove/service RTAs or bushings without complete removal of rear assembly. I’d think you’d prefer the flexibility of not being so tied in to one direction.
To access the nuts you’re concerned about, get a cheap 18mm wrench at Agrisupply and grind it down to about 3/16" - 1/8" thick. To get better access at the nut for real torquing, remove the left rear tire after snugging things in place - it let’s you get better access. The camber bolt didn’t move when I was really hefting on it.
Now that you’ve got your welded slot tabs in, you shouldn’t have any real reason to remove the whole rear subframe assy (unless you bend/break it).
rrr[/quote]
We’ll have to agree to disagree.
I’ve adjusted my eccentric rtabs numerous times. Getting to the nut next to the subframe bushing is a bear, and my cut down wrench only makes it possible, it doesn’t make it easy. I’m not convinced that the rtab nut can be torqued tightly enough if it’s next to the subframe bushing and only barely accessible. I think that the issue of ensuring the rtab bolts are nice and tight is more important then being able to easily remove the trailing arms.
I figured out why the camber adjuster eccentric wouldn’t go on and removed a little material from 3 of the 4 inboard rtab ears so the bolts had more room to travel. It was late and that effort was kinda noisy. I was sweating that the chick next door might come over and raise hell.
[quote=“Ranger” post=56037] We’ll have to agree to disagree.
I’ve adjusted my eccentric rtabs numerous times. Getting to the nut next to the subframe bushing is a bear, and my cut down wrench only makes it possible, it doesn’t make it easy. I’m not convinced that the rtab nut can be torqued tightly enough if it’s next to the subframe bushing and only barely accessible. I think that the issue of ensuring the rtab bolts are nice and tight is more important then being able to easily remove the trailing arms.
I figured out why the camber adjuster eccentric wouldn’t go on and removed a little material from 3 of the 4 inboard rtab ears so the bolts had more room to travel. It was late and that effort was kinda noisy. I was sweating that the chick next door might come over and raise hell.[/quote]
I’m with Scott on this one! Ease of adjustment is much more important to me. I’ve adjusted my rear alignment settings three times this year already, but have never changed a trailing arm. Dropping the rear assembly just isn’t very hard if I do need to service a trailing arm component… Having those RTAB nuts really flippin’ tight is however very important!