Road Atlanta entry list

#21

19 on the list as of this morning.

  • Stroup
  • Gropp (?)
    = 21 car standing start.

And a fierce battle for 6th. :woohoo:

Steve D.

#22

And only 1 Patton listed, but I’m pretty sure there’ll be two in attendance.

#23

Looks like a great turnout so far!

Too bad it also looks like rain Fri, Sat and Sun. according to weather.com, 40-50% chance each day…lets hope the forecast changes slightly before the weekend.

#24

I have a replacement motor going in right now…so I may be racing, too. I missed registration, so I’ll have to register there. I have no rain tires, so that may be the deciding factor for me.

I will be racing in the enduro with Jim Levie, though.

#25

M3Bill wrote:

[quote]I have a replacement motor going in right now…so I may be racing, too. I missed registration, so I’ll have to register there. I have no rain tires, so that may be the deciding factor for me.

I will be racing in the enduro with Jim Levie, though.[/quote]

I don’t have rain tires either :blush: but I’ll be there… if you have your motor in, go for it. Craig and I had a pretty good race the last time we raced in the rain on worn out dry tires.

Come on… do it

#26

scottmc wrote:

[quote]M3Bill wrote:

[quote]I have a replacement motor going in right now…so I may be racing, too. I missed registration, so I’ll have to register there. I have no rain tires, so that may be the deciding factor for me.

I will be racing in the enduro with Jim Levie, though.[/quote]

I don’t have rain tires either :blush: but I’ll be there… if you have your motor in, go for it. Craig and I had a pretty good race the last time we raced in the rain on worn out dry tires.

Come on… do it[/quote]
That’s what I told Bill in an email earlier today. Bring the car and run it! This would be the time to check out the new engine. Better to find out sooner, rather than later, if there’s a problem.

#27

No rain tires for me either. If it rains it will become a expensive weekend of spectating :ohmy:

#28

87isMan wrote:

I’ve heard that before… from me.
I say that every time it rains "I don’t have rains… I’m not gonna run"
The next thing I know, I’m suiting up and pulling onto grid :huh: Do it… it’ll be fun

#29

scottmc wrote:

[quote]87isMan wrote:

I’ve heard that before… from me.
I say that every time it rains "I don’t have rains… I’m not gonna run"
The next thing I know, I’m suiting up and pulling onto grid :huh: Do it… it’ll be fun[/quote]

Maybe at another track, but not the concrete jungle at RA. We’ll see!!

#30

87isMan wrote:

[quote]

Maybe at another track, but not the concrete jungle at RA. We’ll see!![/quote]

Yeah, exactly.

#31

looks like i’ll be hanging out at RA all weekend…if anyone decides they don’t want to drive in the wet, i’d be happy to stop drinking long enough to race their car for them…robinson can vouch for me :wink:

just thought i’d lay that offer out there, lol…see you guys friday!

#32

Dave could be a claims adjuster when it comes to figuring out body repair costs.

#33

I’m likely out for RA. I may have just hosed up my replacement head. It’s going to the local machine in the morning to get looked at.

#34

Ranger wrote:

Dude?! :dry:

You are starting to become to heads what Kelly is to clutches :blink: I hope it all checks out for you. Good Luck!

#35

Ranger wrote:

Scott, what learning experience did you have now?

RP

#36

Curiosity killed the cat. And he got off easy compared to Ranger’s wallet.:ohmy:

Sorry to hear the saga continues…

Steve D.

PS - Kind of makes me glad the only tool I have is the hip pocket leather wrench.:blush:

#37

So the motor is in…I am going to run test and tune on Friday to test it out instead of testing it under race conditions.

#38

Patton wrote:

[quote]Ranger wrote:

Scott, what learning experience did you have now?

RP[/quote]

I learned the putting a head on a motor is a non-trivial task.

Issues:

  1. Clean fluids out of head bolt holes. Chase threads.

  2. Don’t go crazy with cleaning off the top of the block. A steel rotory brush, for example, might be over the top.

  3. With head off, put head and block at TDC and look at what valves are sticking out, and note how cylinder 1 & 6 are going to mar the head’s deck when you place the head on the block. Rotate both cam and crank away from TDC a bit such that neither valves nor pistons are sticking out. Then turn both back to TDC and wargame whats going to happen when the head is on top of block and you turn one at a time to TDC. Now figure out how to do all of that without any undesired contact.

  4. If you fail #1 above and decide that head needs to come back off, take a hard look at #2. Because if inappropriate contact occurs during head removal, like #6 piston marring the head’s deck, there will be much gnashing of teeth, followed by a visit to a machine shop to have the head decked.

  5. Don’t even consider attempting to remove the head with the manifolds still attached. That’s only possible with a crane, and even then the risk of damaging the head is very high. The head and manifolds combine to weigh approx. 500,000lbs. Attempting to lift head and manifolds off of the block, no matter what clever idea you think you’ve come up with, is really f**king stupid.

#39

Scott,
I had multiple head replacement lessons in 2008. It’s a meaty subject, with many nuances. Regarding the lifting and suspension of the head, I used a wooden pole (shovel handle) suspended across the garage door rails over the engine bay of the car. Then you can rig a rope and pulley from the pole to lift/suspend the head and intake manifold. Works great until you hit the garage door opener button like a dumbass :ohmy:. It all comes tumbin’ down!

Jon

(PS, I now own an engine hoist.)

#40

alfageorgia wrote:

[quote]Scott,
I had multiple head replacement lessons in 2008. It’s a meaty subject, with many nuances. Regarding the lifting and suspension of the head, I used a wooden pole (shovel handle) suspended across the garage door rails over the engine bay of the car. Then you can rig a rope and pulley from the pole to lift/suspend the head and intake manifold. Works great until you hit the garage door opener button like a dumbass :ohmy:. It all comes tumbin’ down!

Jon

(PS, I now own an engine hoist.)[/quote]

Lol, that’s a great story.

Well I reinstalled my head tonight and did another leakdown. Both tasks that I’m becoming increasingly adept in. And it failed miserably again. That means that my assumption last night that oil in the head bolt holes was preventing the head bolts from fully seating was probably wrong. There’s something else going on. I’m going to seek professional help on this one.

I did a wet leakdown too. Since the problem is all cylinders, I must be doing something wrong with the gasket. Although how one could mess up putting a gasket in place is a little puzzling.

Y’all have fun at RA. Don’t hurt your cars.

Here’s another lesson learned on installing a head:

In order to get the t belt on to the cam sprocket you have to play with the tension on both sides of the t belt. You do this by moving the crank. First, put the crank tdc timing mark about a 1/2" towards the exhaust manifold. Second, put the t belt on to the cam sprocket (exhaust side). Then move the crank to tdc. This will create some t belt slack on the intake side of the cam sprocket and you can then get the t belt fully on to the cam sprocket.