Ranger's motorswap thread

#201

So how do we respect the integrity of “stock” junk yard parts?

#202

Gasman wrote:

Check the tabs on the cover. You can tell if it had been opened or not.

#203

csrow wrote:

[quote]Gasman wrote:

Check the tabs on the cover. You can tell if it had been opened or not.[/quote]

The CCR would need to be amended to state something like “ECU’s must show no sign that they’ve been opened. If protested and your ECU shows signs of being opened, you will swap with the the SpecE30 Regional Series Director’s POS 135hp ECU.”

#204

Lets not get ahead of our selfs here. before making ecu’s illegal that have broken tabs,lets be reasonable.E30s are 20ish years old now and its going to be hard to find an ecu that is good that hasn’t been molested, its easy enough to put a stock chip back into an ecu that has been opened up.

#205

Ok, Scott…it is time for an update on how the car is running. Chuck

#206

cwbaader wrote:

The motor did well. A Scott motor actually made it a whole weekend. Progress is made.

Items of note:

I was using a 30-70 mix of 20W50 and 10W30 because that’s what I had laying around. I had an oil pressure of 45psi at red line and that seemed a little low to me. Any thoughts on that? I was thinking that I’d have more like 55psi at red line.

I have an oil pressure sender on my Accusump. It was giving me readings that made not a damn bit of sense. I’ve got a hunch that sender and gauge are mismatched. One more thing to check out.

My electric fan is suddenly shorted out and just blows fuses every time I turn it on. Dern thing.

I was working on pulling my diff tonight because it needs to be rebuilt. The last work my diff got was the replacement of it’s big hanger bushing by the PO. To my surprise, the bolts between driveshaft and diff, and frame and diff, were finger tight. What kind of shit is that?

Damn. The only way you can trust that anything is done right, is to do it yourself.

#207

Ranger wrote:

Thta’s fairly common. They all become loose from vibration.

Need to tighten down all the bolts everywhere at least once a year.

#208

csrow wrote:

[quote]Ranger wrote:

Thta’s fairly common. They all become loose from vibration.

Need to tighten down all the bolts everywhere at least once a year.[/quote]

Anyone recommend loktite for diff and driveshaft bolts? Maybe there is a type of loktite that is relatively weak and is oriented on this sort of situation. I don’t want to have to use a torch to undo these bolts next time.

#209

Do a search at Mcmaster for thread lockers…they have a page describing the ability of each.

Now that you have a weekend on your motor, you need to do a couple of things. First, adjust the valves. Second, change the oil…make sure the new oil has the ZHP additives needed for a flat tappet cam. The oil pressure you saw is probably a combination of several things. First, a worn oil pump. Second, an old pressure relief valve. Since you have checked your bearings, I doubt they are a problem so I would look to the other two areas for answers. Also, straight 20W50 racing oil will help. Chuck

#210

Ranger wrote:

[quote]csrow wrote:

[quote]Gasman wrote:

Check the tabs on the cover. You can tell if it had been opened or not.[/quote]

The CCR would need to be amended to state something like “ECU’s must show no sign that they’ve been opened. If protested and your ECU shows signs of being opened, you will swap with the the SpecE30 Regional Series Director’s POS 135hp ECU.”[/quote]

What if I wanted to open the box and reflow weakened solder joints? I guess since Bimmerparts has them for $316 it would be worth it just to buy a new one…

Is this the wrong place to advertise for sale a Conforti/Turner chip installed in a 173 DME? :laugh: :huh:

Steve D.

#211

Steve D wrote:

Sounds we just found the next number for one of your many 325’s waiting in line to be a SE30.