picking the right e30

#21

No matter what way you swing it, building your own car will “almost” always cost more than buying a built one.

The only downside to buying someone else’s car is not knowing the PO driving style. Drivers can destroy cars faster than wrecks can sometimes. As an example, back when I raced Hondas there were a few guys that would complain to high heaven that the gearboxes in the Si were junk since they kept blowing out transmissions. The rest of us never really had a problem. Finally had a chance to watch in car video. Yep, coming into the braking zones, dude was just pushin the clutch in and ramming it into gear and popping the clutch back out. Knew lots of folks that would routinely over-rev the engines on downshift. Curb jumpers destroy suspensions pretty quickly too.

But, if you have the extra cash and time, by all means go for it. Personally, I chose to start with a very nice E30 (spent $3,500) for a 0 rust car that was perfectly straight.

#22

Opinions are like … well you know. My opinion on sways: I love the Bimmerworld bars. Have had the ST bars, the Ireland bars, and a couple of others. Bimmerworld kit is my favorite of all - it was designed and built to be the best bar in SE30. It’s what I run on “the original” Spec E30 (built in 2003), and improved many times since :slight_smile:
-Vic

#23

That’s the toughest part. Every one wants to make the right decision on parts but so much variety and opinions. Right now I’m trying to shop for suspension for my e46 so i can get back on the track this year but I don’t know what setup is the best for me and my budget. Frustration

#24

I second, that opinion, the BimmerWorld bar is great. Tried all of them and now only use the BW bar. Like camber plates, Ground Control is the only way to go.

#25

So that is why I am so slow. Damn.

#26

We all like things that are of quality, but he is right, the only improtant part is behind the wheel. Spend your money on track time.

#27

Well. I bought an 87 325i tonight. Straight, running and ready to be transformed into my hpde car for the next 1-2 seasons. Not bad for $750. Already manual trans too.

#28

#29

Looks like you stole that car for $750. I was informed that there are none of those cars left. Just verts and automatics. Hmm.

#30

[quote=“King Tut” post=76082]Looks like you stole that car for $750. I was informed that there are none of those cars left. Just verts and automatics. Hmm.[/quote] Now that was funny.

#31

should have bought an E36!

I’m pretty sure that all 325i cars in 87 were 4 doors? A coupe in 87 should be a 325is. The front marker light looks to be the old square style from 84-85, and the rear of the car door back looks like it has been painted. Hopefully that is not an early non abs eta car!

#32

[quote=“87isMan” post=76088]should have bought an E36!

I’m pretty sure that all 325i cars in 87 were 4 doors? A coupe in 87 should be a 325is. The front marker light looks to be the old square style from 84-85, and the rear of the car door back looks like it has been painted. Hopefully that is not an early non abs eta car![/quote]
Why should I have bought an e36?

#33

[quote=“norcalmike” post=76089]
Why should I have bought an e36?[/quote]
So you could race in an undersubscribed series with way fewer cars. :laugh:

#34

Post a pic of the intake manifold and we’ll tell u if its an eta.

#35

It is an eta with an I in the trunklid. Its still a solid car. Anyone local got a donor engine?:dry:

#36

run it as is for DE. Do the swap when you are ready to race or run gts1 until you can get it right. Mine started life as an eta also.

#37

I will as long as it will last. Although it runs great now, it does have over 300k. Not sure how long it will last once I hammer on it.

#38

Eta’s are tanks. Do a valve job, check compression, replace seals and gaskets and cracked hoses/vacuum lines, and fire it up. I think I may have an old ecu with a conforti chip if u are interested. I’ll have to look.

#39

+1. Eta’s are awesome. They just get a bad rap from kids that talk as if the normal person’s DD shift point is >6krpm. As a DD the eta is terrific.

#40

I’ll agree that it runs well for how many miles it has on it other than valve ticking which I’m going to see if I can adjust away. It even passed ca smog with pretty good numbers. The guy I bought it from used it to commute to work the last 12 years. He did 50 miles a day round trip and he said it was amazingly reliable.
First thing is first. The suspension has been horribly neglected. I’m going to order the spec h&r and bilsteins as well as CAs and bushings.
I’m definitely interested in any used parts you guys will be willing to sell me.