Oil Pressure Guage

#21

All this discussion is why I run mechanical gauges!!!

CB

#22

cwbaader wrote:

[quote]All this discussion is why I run mechanical gauges!!!

CB[/quote]
Must… resist… pointless… catfight… :wink:

#23

Furthermore, I refuse to have a battle of wits with an unarmed person:laugh: Chuck

#24

All this discussion is why I run mechanical gauges!!!

CB

#25

Steve D wrote:

[quote]cwbaader wrote:

[quote]All this discussion is why I run mechanical gauges!!!

CB[/quote]
Must… resist… pointless… catfight… ;)[/quote]

You two are both really good guys. It’s painful to see you irritating each other. Maybe you’d get along better if you had a couple beers at the next event. We can all toast engine #6. Hmm. I mean “tip a beer” to engine #6. I don’t like to see “toast” and one of my engine’s in the same sentance.

That out of that way…
I’m tempted to rip out my two OP sensors out, reinstall the fitting for the 3rd OP sensor and change them all to mechanical. I have an OP sensor at the galley and another one at the Accusump. I used to have an OP sensor at the pump. The OP sensor at the galley never agrees with the sensor at the sump. When the galley says 50psi the sump says 70psi. When the galley says 20psi, the sump says 0psi. It makes no sense. Not only are the gauges and sender types correctly matched, but even if they weren’t, that isn’t the pattern of disagreement that they’d get.

I’m thinking that maybe VDO gauges and senders aren’t too accurate. And if I eliminated the sender I’d have one less source of innacuracy.

#26

cwbaader wrote:

And I refuse to debate grey with someone who only sees black and white.:laugh: :stuck_out_tongue: :stuck_out_tongue:

Ranger - If you think we’re both really good guys, you need to get out more often. The world is full of genuinely decent people!! :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:

#27

This is great, thanks.

Don

#28

This would work, but you will still need to clean some annodizing off to make this ground.

I think the more important point and it was made earlier in this thread, is that this entire Factory3 plate is only grounded to the motor by the center threads that end up in the filter and to the motor. It would probably make sense to clean the annodizing off this part.

Yes?

Don

#29

GUILTY!!! You damn right I look at things as black and white, or as I prefer to call it, the right way and the wrong way (here to fore known as “Steve’s way”:laugh::laugh: :laugh:) (I guess that will supplant “Ranger’s way”) 52 years of working on cars tends to teach…not quite as experienced as Ranger in failure, but have had my share of learning experiences. Moreover, there are three of us friends known as “The Trussville Brain Trust” that have 160ish years of mechanical experience, over 100 on race cars of all types (IMSA, RS, GTP, even some early NASCAR, etc. We have been criticized as being “old school” but as one of us said, as long as there are rubber tires on a car, physics is physics. We all tend to see things as the right way and the wrong way. I, unfortunately in some cases, tend to try to help where help is not wanted (note, I did not say needed) hence my reluctance to espouse my limited knowledge.

Steve, I’ll buy you a beer at the next race and we can discuss your ballast theory. CB

#30

dstevenson wrote:

[quote]This would work, but you will still need to clean some annodizing off to make this ground.

I think the more important point and it was made earlier in this thread, is that this entire Factory3 plate is only grounded to the motor by the center threads that end up in the filter and to the motor. It would probably make sense to clean the annodizing off this part.

Yes?

Don[/quote]

You can still get ground through anodization it’s not that big of deal. You can not get ground through rubber and there is no guarantee of contact within the center. I would remove potential uncertainty and just run the ground. Thinking more about it, it’s the only 100% way of being sure. Last thing you want on track is an oil gauge reading zero due to intermittent connection.

#31

cwbaader wrote:

[quote]You damn right I look at things as black and white, or as I prefer to call it, the right way and the wrong way (here to fore known as “Steve’s way”:laugh::laugh: [/quote] In Alabama, it’s “here to fore”. In the other 49 states it’s heretofore.

[quote] 52 years of working on cars tends to teach…[/quote] I’ve been schtupping my wife for 20 years, but that doesn’t mean I am any good at it.

[quote] … three of us friends known as “The Trussville Brain Trust” [/quote] Uh oh. I think I just gave myself a hernia swinging at that softball. Do they snicker when they call you that?

[quote] physics is physics. [/quote] So when do I get to see the numbers proving how “colder” spark plugs make for materially colder exhaust gas temps?

[quote]I’ll buy you a beer at the next race and we can discuss your ballast theory. CB[/quote] “Tastes great!!!”

“Less filling!!!”

Not sure that would be productive.:laugh: :laugh:

#32

Its hereto fore when my computer does it…weak, really weak.

I’m not sure I would brag about your wife:cheer:

TBT was originally said as a cut…we like it, since it works.

I was wrong on the spark plugs…been too many years since I build motocross bikes.

“Not sure that would be productive.”

See, y’all…a closed mind will never learn. CB

#33

Hi

My worst fears are confirmed. With this plate attached and the filter assembly turned 180 degrees toward the front of the car
it will not clear the crank shaft impulse sensor.

This part is now for sale for $35 plus shipping.

I am going with an sender/oil dist block from VAC and a hose from the stock sender location to the block.

More details later.

Dwild

#34

I’ve never understood the desire to rotate the oil filter housing 180. I get that it points the filter forward, making it easier to change, but my filter is still oriented in the factory direction, and the slip-on band-type filter wrench with flex head (about $4 from Advance auto) I have makes quick work of removing it.

Is there another angle (no pun intended) in the desire to rotate the filter housing that I’m not aware of?

#35

Chuck, when you start taking oil temps from the pan, you will realize that you need a better oil cooler than stock. That gives you an opportunity to plumb a remote filter and cooler. Access problem solved. cb

#36

It was a no brainer for me, This was the only way to make the oil filter fit with the headers I have in this car. It also gets it out of the heat of the headers, and also makes it way easier to change.

#37

I’ve never had a problem changing a filter in the original location as long as you let the exhaust cool first. I just follow the directions printed on the side of every fram which is 3/4 turn after seal contact and it never leaks and still comes off by hand.

#38

Hi

Since you were all allot of help to me with my OP gauge setup I am posting all the details of how I did this. Thanks again

Here is my parts list and setup for an aftermarket oil pressure gauge and oil warning light with 15 psi switch with a remote mounted oil distribution block.

The directions that came with my autometer elec. oil pressure gauge, strongly recommended mounting the oil pressure sender via a remote dist block to insulate it from motor vibration that will cause it to fail prematurely. Other race car fabricators also use this technique and agree it is a good practice.

Replace the stock idiot lite sensor in the block with a 12MX1.5 male to AN-6 male adapter (this connects the new oil line to the block) (Jegs.com)

Get pre-made AN-6 steel braided flexible oil line, this will have AN-6 female connectors on each end (Jegs). A 3 foot long flex line works.

Buy (VAC BMW) or better yet, have an oil distribution block made out of aluminum that has at least three 1/8" NPT female ports and mounting holes/tabs. A spare 4th NPT port on the dist block could be smart. You will want plugs for any un-used NPT ports on this block. It is not clear that taking oil temp readings via a remote dist block, is accurate or acceptable.

Do not anodize the dist block, as this interferes with electrical grounding. Use one of the mounting holes on the dist block to electrically ground it with a wire.

Get electric OP gauge, with matched sender (Jegs) and , and 15 psi warning lite with switch (these both should be 1/8" NPT to screw into the remote dist block)

Get a 1/8" NPT male to AN-6 male adapter (this will make the oil line connection to the distribution block) (Jegs)

Seal the NPT threads with a liquid brush on Teflon sealer (or tape)

Route the hose and remote mount the distribution block. On my E30 race car it sits on the flat area behind the head lights on the passenger side. A three foot oil line is just about the right length.

Make your electrical connections, OP gauge has three (12V, sender, and ground), warning lite I used had only 2 wires (one for 12V, the other to the sender) its grounded thru the distribution block.

Pictures avail on request

PS Still have my Factory3 sandwich plate for sale ($35 plus shipping)

Thanks
Don

#39

Post the pics pls. Or send them to me (scott(at)gress(dot)org) and I’ll post them.

Re. remote oil temp. Won’t work worth a spit.

#40

Here are the photos of this setup. You will notice some duct tape here, thst is a temporary cover for a factory hole on the body work.

Note: The VAC dist block (despite the part description) comes with one non 1/8" npt port. The adapter to get this to 1/8" NPT can be bought from Jegs.

Here is the part# info for that.

1 1 105-2277 ADAPTER METRIC M12 X 1.5 8.99 8.99
6175152933