 |
|
BTW Steve welcome to how you become Jim Levie.
Each one of these cars has a “weird dyno dip”, Fuel starve, electrical gremlin…, before you know it you possess invaluable information like excatly what torx sockets and in what order is quickest to remove the transmission.
And it starts with helpful stuff like Skeen posted - check everything in the car, then check it again, then replace it with new sh!t.
A couple of notes for those of you who are not familiar with a good dyno plot:
Fuel/air ratio…this needs to be as flat as possible just under 13 to 1 for best power. Wild swings in F/A ratio are not acceptable.
This motor makes max torque at about 4000rpm. That is where the motor will start pulling really hard. Max power is at 6000rpm, so the power band on this motor is 2000rpm which is really wide. A wide power band will make the car much easier to drive given the lack of rear gear.
This motor was dynoed with a fresh head, old bottom end. This is the best the motor is going to do…as it is raced, the seal on the valves deteriorates and the motor looses power. I have seen a motor such as this go from 166hp to 145hp (without freshening the head) in two years of frequent racing. Chuck