My Spec Suspension Install Adventure

#21

I didn’t see rear shock mounts on your list. Those shocks will destroy factory ones on day one.

#22

Well I didn’t get to the spec exhaust today before the storms hit. I did install new billet rear shock mounts, I guess I forgot to list that. I did get the set screw done in my control arm bushings, and it turned out great. I drilled em, tapped em, and ran a nice fine thread screw in with a lock washer. Those bushings are definitely not moving now.

#23

I just started my suspension install adventure. Can anyone post pics of how they’ve notched they’re strut tower for camber plates. I looks pretty simple what I need to do but I just want to verify before I do anything irreversible. I have the ie spec e30 plates.

#24

shouldn’t have to notch strut towers to put in camber plates

#25

with Ireland plates you can only install 2 of the 4 tightening bolts if you don’t notch the periphery of the hole.
You should be able to test fit the plate and see how far over the bolt slot goes and notch to allow that range of adjustment. It shouldn’t be very much because the spring hits the inner fender.(I haven’t done it yet)
bruce

#26

Foglght wrote:

For the threaded shock collar, if they are a bitch to get out, I frequently cut them off. Whenever I bought new shocks, they usually came with new collars. You just have to be careful when cutting them off. A steady hand and a cutoff wheel works great. That “special tool” that Bilstein sends is special alright.
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I don’t understand how you cut a slot in the nut without cutting a slot through the threaded part of the strut housing. Mine have goofy looking lock rings that probably came with the sachs struts that are installed. I have a 4.5 in grinder/cutter, a tiny dremel with cuttoff wheels and one pipe wrench. I would like to get this done today without having to go and buy another pipe wrench or vise. I already tried wd40 and a torch.

#27

Also I need to get at my passenger side front control arm inner ball joint. Do I need to remove my exhaust from the manifold or lift up the motor and mount or what? I fubared the outer ball joint on that side and its an e36 style ball joint with a bracket on the bottom so I am not able to get it out without a press and the proper set of cups. I ordered new control arms with joints and they arrived today.

#28

Ok I got the control arm off. I had to sacrifice the closed end of my 22mm wrench and use my pickle fork to pry on the end against the subframe.

#29

I used a vice and pipe wrench that made it very easy to remove the OEM shock collars. It is worth buying both of them. I see you already realized you don’t need to remove the exhaust or the motor mount, but access to the nut on the inner ball joint is not very fun. Normally the key to popping ball joints loose is a hammer blow in a strategic location. Just gotta find the right place to hit.

#30

I bought another 18" pipe wrench today and got my strut lock ring off. I also bought a 12 ton press from northern. It looks better than a harbor freight and has a one year warranty but I was still disappointing to see that the cylinders on the jack are not chrome plated. I got the IE CABs pressed in. They were a very tight fit and I doubt they will ever rotate. looks like I should be ready for RA this weekend.

#31

When it comes time to replace my front struts and control arms, I’m going to recall this thread and take the car to a shop.

#32

Ranger wrote:

Wuss B)

Just think Air Chisel, and if you don’t have one it give you an excuse to go buy tools!! Sh!t on a car that already has race springs this job is cake.

#33

Yes it is. The last time I did this the springs were so shot that I didn’t even need the strut compressor. This one had like new factory springs and being able to only get three coils in the clamp meant I had to max out my spring compressor and then pry and hammer them out and hope that I didn’t get a head injury in the process.

#34

You should have just held the spring tight put the impact on the top nut and watched the strut skitter across your shop floor.

I’m kidding of course:woohoo:

#35

87isMan wrote:

Naah, you put one foot on the strut housing and cut the strut rod in between spring coils with a torch. Best to point the strut bearing end away from anything breakable