KILL SWITCH, AGAIN

#106

Thanks. I’m an idiot. There are only 2 coming out of it. I thought there were 4.

#107

Time for more kill switch pics. I didn’t do the “optional” transient killer/resistor. I tried to follow the Yoda method as best I could. I should have asked him more questions about wire sizes. I got the parts from Bimmerworld (kill switch), Radio Shack (10 gauge ring/spade terminals, 30amp fuse and holder), Discount Auto Parts (2 gauge copper lug, 10 gauge wire), JC Whitney (6 foot 2 gauge battery cable), and Pegasus Racing (terminal and lug covers). As you can tell from that I made the battery cable 2 gauge and the ECU wire 10 gauge. I guessed based on looking at the OEM positive terminal. Later I found out that the OEM battery cable is actually more like a 2 gauge center with more outside which I believe is called 2/0 gauge. So it is OEM wiring to the switch and then my 2 gauge / 10 gauge back to the battery. On to the pics which also include my fire bottle pull for corner workers:

#108

Pretty. Hope no one gets over excited and pulls your fire handle to kill your car. Is unusual to see them together.

#109

Yoda has a phone (and email).

#110

It is actually quite common location. Here is mine and I got the idea from looking and 1,000’s of cars and pictures.

[attachment=1481]Picture053.jpg[/attachment]

#111

Looking at it again, I guess his sticker locations could be a little better. The ones on the outside are backwards.

#112

There’s a number of stories out there of corner workers and tech inspectors activating fire suppression when they meant to just kill the car. The 90% solution is to take positive control of the kill switch test during annual tech.

#113

I hope to never be in a position where a corner worker has to pull either, but if I am, I can’t help it if the corner worker can’t read FIRE or has never seen a kill switch. I didn’t think about the fact the decals are opposite on the outside. The huge E decal wouldn’t fit on the door pillar so I put it under the kill switch decal on the door. I still have another larger E decal, so I might put that on anyways incase the door gets knocked off.

#114

I definitely plan to do this. I also don’t plan to use the kill switch other than at annual tech with all the stories of them failing or causing issues.

#115

[quote=“rrroadster” post=49142]All right! Now the Kill Switch kills!

Thanks guys! [/quote]

I’m going to be wiring mine right near the terminal block and was hoping to eliminate the terminal block since it seems pointless to me to have a six inch wire from the kill switch to the terminal block instead of just eliminating the terminal block altogether.

I just wanted to run the connections by you guys first before I start hacking things up. I’m going to disconnect the big wire at the terminal block (one big wire in and three wires out (1 big, two small)) and connect them to the big lugs on the kill switch. The two smaller wires at the terminal block (DME power?) are wired into the spade connectors such that the alternator -> DME works normally but when the switch is opened/shut off, the engine side goes through the switch, to the resistor, and then grounds to the shock tower.

Does this make sense?

#116

[quote=“MrDomino” post=66216]
I’m going to be wiring mine right near the terminal block and was hoping to eliminate the terminal block since it seems pointless to me to have a six inch wire from the kill switch to the terminal block instead of just eliminating the terminal block altogether.

I just wanted to run the connections by you guys first before I start hacking things up. I’m going to disconnect the big wire at the terminal block (one big wire in and three wires out (1 big, two small)) and connect them to the big lugs on the kill switch. The two smaller wires at the terminal block (DME power?) are wired into the spade connectors such that the alternator -> DME works normally but when the switch is opened/shut off, the engine side goes through the switch, to the resistor, and then grounds to the shock tower.

Does this make sense?[/quote]
Nope. Gotta draw a diagram.

You lost me when you said “alternator -> DME” and next you talked about engine side and ground.

I don’t know that I’d bother with the resister nor the ground. Almost no one does that, to include (I think) the OEM design.

Obviously there’s two lines coming from the battery. As long as your kill switch cuts both lines and there’s no route directly from alternator to DME, it’ll work.

Re. your signature. Don’t be sorry. Your struggles for social acceptance, for the slightest gesture of affection from the opposite sex were not in vain.

Hmm. Ok, well maybe they were. That is sad indeed.

#117

It is more work, but seriously consider mounting the kill switch inside the protection of the cage. When I had my wreck a cowl mouthed kill switch would have been inaccessible, if not destroyed.

#118

[quote=“Ranger” post=66217]

Re. your signature. Don’t be sorry. Your struggles for social acceptance, for the slightest gesture of affection from the opposite sex were not in vain.

Hmm. Ok, well maybe they were. That is sad indeed.[/quote]

Haha. Engineering isn’t a major. It’s a lifestyle.

Also, I think I’m going to eventually mount the kill switch inside the passenger window in the vent there.

#119

[quote=“MrDomino” post=66339][quote=“Ranger” post=66217]

Re. your signature. Don’t be sorry. Your struggles for social acceptance, for the slightest gesture of affection from the opposite sex were not in vain.

Hmm. Ok, well maybe they were. That is sad indeed.[/quote]

Haha. Engineering isn’t a major. It’s a lifestyle.
[/quote]
Haha. Only if you choose for it to be.

Calculus, physics and celibacy. And we wonder why there’s no white kids doing it.

#120

The benefit of going back to school for engineering at 27 is that all those girls who are majoring in engineer are hot unlike they were 9 years ago.

#121

Slapstick is considered a lower tier of humor. I would encourage you to leave behind crude jokes such as lighting farts and explore instead the more subtle genres of wit. Find the wry in life.

Hot engineering chicks. Uh huh. Can’t hardly swing a dead cat w/o hitting a hot engineering chick. “Hey babe, why don’t you come over to my pad tonight? We can pull an all-nighter working on heat transfer.”

#122

[quote=“Ranger” post=66347][quote=“turbo329is” post=66345]
Slapstick is considered a lower tier of humor. I would encourage you to leave behind crude jokes such as lighting farts and explore instead the more subtle genres of wit.[/quote]

“I work for Mel Brooks”

#123

At least that’s what I think Slim Pickens says when he punches out a guard to get on the set of a musical. It’s been a while since I saw Blazing Saddles.

#124

Lol, ya, that’s the line. I should rent the movie for our kids. It’s so important to expose children to the classics, don’t you think?

“No, don’t shoot him, it will only make him mad.”

#125

Quick noobie question for those folks with their kill switch location on the passenger side at the harness bar/main hoop junction. This thread has been a great help. I’m wiring the Pegasus 4430 Master Battery Switch with Alternator Protection which is basically the same as the Bimmerworld switch. For those using the resistor, where are you connecting the ground wire to the car body and what gauge wire are you using from resistor to ground?