Interior Advice & roll cage advice

#21

So close… You fill the second bottle with mercury. For a four liter bottle that works out to be 119lb. And since mercury isn’t combustible it could (at some hazard to your health) be used to extinguish a fire. And it pours a lot better than sand.

#22

Richard,
I can help out with the cage. I build them in Orlando. I can meet you part way or you can come to the shop. I have done about 8 or 9 cages this year for SCCA guys. I can build you whatever your heart desires. Call me and we can talk or e mail me and I can send pics.
Chris Leone
Chris Leone Motorsports
laxorl at aol dot com
4 0 7 four six 3 zero 3 1 2

#23

Sounds like you’ve been busy Richard :slight_smile:

Here’s a link to a post in the FL forum on a local cage builder:
http://spece30.com/component/option,com_kunena/Itemid,94/func,view/id,33510/catid,24/

I haven’t seen his cage work personally, but it’s somewhere close by for you to get started. Call the guys at Vortex or Rennen - I’m sure they could point you in the right direction. We had ours done in Ohio before moving South and then some additional work done by Tommy Riggins Racing up in the Jacksonville area.

Here’s the link to photos of our build:
http://web.mac.com/natblack/Black_Site/The_Race_Car.html
You can see how we handled the sunroof delete. We still have our power windows as well…
(Don’t forget the invitation to come by and look at our car is still open B) )

Have fun and don’t forget to come out of the garage once in a while - it’s been hot!

#24

I would definitely cut out the sunroof cassette. It really isn’t that hard and there was a great “how to” with photos posted on here recently. I did mine prior to that and it wasn’t that hard. As stated, search the forum for it. An angle grinder and a drill are the only power tools you need. A thin chisel will help too.

Skinning the sunroof panel also isn’t that hard, once you find the small gap between the exterior and interior panels. Just separate them with a thin bladed screwdriver and cut the welds with a chisel.

My cage builder was able to weld my skinned panel back into the opening just by bending the flanges around the opening together and tack welding them. I had suggested using clips, but his method worked. Then I filled the gap with automotive seam sealer. It all came out pretty nice, with lots of extra headroom, which allowed the roll bar to be mounted up against the roof skin.

#25

if you could send me the link of the picture by picture take out i would greatly appreciate it.

THIS IS A LIL OFF TOPIC BUUUTTTT… today i was doing a compression check on “estella” the pressures were 140 to 155, i wanted to know if these are good numbers to race with because the gauge said it was in the green/good side.
funny after i had the car idling and after i was done with the compression check i noticed alot of fuel dripping out of the fuel line and i previously just fixed a line a month ago when i accidentally cut through one while i was cutting out the rusted floor on the driver side. the leak isnt from the previous fix and i cant seem to locate it, im planning on putting the car on the lift to have a little more indepth look but im starting to get a little worried about this fuel line maybe springer numerous leaks in the future even though the line looks to be in great shape.

#26

You sure it is coming from the hard lines. The first thing I did when I got mine was replace all the rubber fuel line as it had dry rotted and was leaking near the engine.

#27

well i did not see any rubber lines from the initial leak but tomorrow ill have the car on the lift and will make the true discovery even if it takes me all day and night.