[quote=“NASA144” post=55655]You’ve met me… don’t you think I’m mean :evil:[/quote]Well of course you were nice to me. I was giving you a set of wheels for free. :woohoo:
DIY Alignment
Foglght
#43
[quote=“Steve D” post=55654]
Regarding strings, if you are going to rig up something like Smart Strings, my recommendation is NOT to use the bumpers or anything else that might get tweaked in a bump (i.e. when you will likely be checking your alignment at the track). Try to mount the standards somewhere inboard far enough that only the biggest tub-screwing hit would prevent them from staying the same.
YMMV[/quote]
Correct, and is the main reason you don’t want to use anything associated with the car, and why I suggested in my method to set up the strings independant of the car.
FishMan
#44
[quote=“Foglght” post=55677][quote=“Steve D” post=55654]
Regarding strings, if you are going to rig up something like Smart Strings, my recommendation is NOT to use the bumpers or anything else that might get tweaked in a bump (i.e. when you will likely be checking your alignment at the track). Try to mount the standards somewhere inboard far enough that only the biggest tub-screwing hit would prevent them from staying the same.
YMMV[/quote]
Correct, and is the main reason you don’t want to use anything associated with the car, and why I suggested in my method to set up the strings independant of the car.[/quote]
It won’t matter if your bumpers get tweaked if you do it my way. I use two pieces of conduit, each with two holes spaced at our track width plus ~6 inches, zip tied to the front and rear bumpers, with strings stretched between the front and rear holes on each side. With this method, the strings will always be parallel even if the car gets tweaked. I center the strings by measuring off the wheel hubs. This method works well for me…
Foglght
#45
[quote=“FishMan” post=55680][quote=“Foglght” post=55677][quote=“Steve D” post=55654]
Regarding strings, if you are going to rig up something like Smart Strings, my recommendation is NOT to use the bumpers or anything else that might get tweaked in a bump (i.e. when you will likely be checking your alignment at the track). Try to mount the standards somewhere inboard far enough that only the biggest tub-screwing hit would prevent them from staying the same.
YMMV[/quote]
Correct, and is the main reason you don’t want to use anything associated with the car, and why I suggested in my method to set up the strings independant of the car.[/quote]
It won’t matter if your bumpers get tweaked if you do it my way. I use two pieces of conduit, each with two holes spaced at our track width plus ~6 inches, zip tied to the front and rear bumpers, with strings stretched between the front and rear holes on each side. With this method, the strings will always be parallel even if the car gets tweaked. I center the strings by measuring off the wheel hubs. This method works well for me…[/quote]
Sure, as long as the strings are equadistant from each other front and rear, and centered on the hubs, you’re fine. That’s why I prefer to not attach anything to the car, and just do it with kite string and jack stands.
FishMan
#46
The strings are attached to the conduit which is attached to the car. As long as you don’t tweak the conduit, the strings will always be parallel. For me, setup is quicker with the conduits in lieu of jack stands, but both methods work equally great.
Steve_D
#47
[quote=“Foglght” post=55677]
Correct, and is the main reason you don’t want to use anything associated with the car, and why I suggested in my method to set up the strings independant of the car.[/quote]
If you set up your string box on jack stands, you don’t have the ability to roll the car on/off scales, bounce each corner to settle the suspension after a change and before a remeasurement…
[quote=“FishMan” post=55680]It won’t matter if your bumpers get tweaked if you do it my way. I use two pieces of conduit, each with two holes spaced at our track width plus ~6 inches, zip tied to the front and rear bumpers[/quote] If you are zip-tying to the bumpers, how will it not matter if the bumpers get tweaked?
Ranger
#48
You guys trying to do this with strings are working way to hard. You can do this much faster with a laser level by putting it against a rear tire and shooting the beam past your front wheel. Then vice versa to check front toe. I discussed this earlier in this thread, but here’s search link that should pick up earlier, more complete, discussions.
Dang how the new search engine here kicks butt.
Steve_D
#49
That method works well except if you have different track width front to rear (or change track width with spacers).
FishMan
#50
The bumper just holds the 1" conduit at the proper height and has zero influence. As long as you center the strings off the hubs and keep the conduits reasonably level, it works perfect every time…
Ranger
#51
That method works well except if you have different track width front to rear (or change track width with spacers).[/quote]
Track width should be the same. Not sure how track width could be changed by something being bent, but if you say that yours is different, who am I to disagree?
If a person is using spacers on front or rear only they either account for that, or remove them for the alignment.
Steve_D
#52
[quote=“Ranger” post=55696]Track width should be the same. [/quote]To quote a well worded lawsuit. “upon information and belief” track width is different front to rear on an E30.
It is easier to leave the wheels on and spacers in place. I like easier solutions. But they aren’t always popular in this crowd.:whistle: