cons to an '87?

#21

edavidson wrote:

[quote]Ditto on the '87 accolades. We have 2 - a 1/87 and a 2/87 (there were some minor changes after 4/87 - water pump, belt tensioner I think).

Both of our cars had the A/C fuel cooling stuff.

Only real advice - check the ECU. If it is a "153" might want to get a spare. This was an early software version and prone to problems. Get a spare, a 173 or 225 should work fine - we have one of each and they work fine.

Enjoy the car!
Ed[/quote]

Just curious, but have you actually had any problems with a -153 ECU or is this just something you heard??

Reason I ask is, I’ve HEARD alot of people mention this, but have heard very few first hand instances of a -153 ECU giving any more trouble than any other number.

Seems to be sort of an internet legend IMHO.

Bret.

#22

I have an '87 325is manufactured 4/87. I don’t seem to have the fuel cooling plumbing mentioned here either.

#23

You may be right about the folk lore on this issue, but ours failed and got a "classic" (as described by others) erratic idle with surging from about 500 to 2000 rpm.
Ed

#24

mine is a 3/87 and i don’t see the fuel cooling stuff at first glance.

is it legal to swap between stock ECUs?

#25

TXBDan wrote:

[quote]mine is a 3/87 and i don’t see the fuel cooling stuff at first glance.

is it legal to swap between stock ECUs?[/quote]

You can swap any ECU that was stock on a 325i/is. Off the top of my head, some of these Bosch ECU numbers (last 3 digits) are -153, -173, -380, -524, -525.

Congrats on the new purchase. :wink:

Bret.

#26

all of the e30 ecu’s are listed in this article
http://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/techarticles/E36-DME-Repair/E36-DME-Repair.htm

cheers,
bruce

#27

I recommend avoiding the 524/525/526 motronics. My 91 had (get this) a top speed governer on it (124mph). Very few people were aware a governer had been installed on any of the E30’s but I can personally attest to it. The 173 I traded for works great

#28

Rigmaster wrote:

[quote]TXBDan wrote:

[quote]mine is a 3/87 and i don’t see the fuel cooling stuff at first glance.

is it legal to swap between stock ECUs?[/quote]

You can swap any ECU that was stock on a 325i/is. Off the top of my head, some of these Bosch ECU numbers (last 3 digits) are -153, -173, -380, -524, -525.

Congrats on the new purchase. :wink:

Bret.[/quote]

Where does one find the ECU number? I have my lower dash panel off now so I am wondering if it’s part of the number that I can see on the lid or if I have to remove the box to see it.

#29

on that pelican parts web site that I listed above you will find a table with all the ecu’s and the full bosch part number beginning with 0 261 … that should be on the upper surface of the computer case.
cheers,
bruce

#30

FWIW, I have an 87 IS that idled between 800-1200. Thought I had to replace the 153 ECU with the same, and found one guaranteed to be working properly. Didn’t fix the problem, and after searching for vacuum leaks and not finding any, I just adjusted the throttle cable so it idles a little higher (~1100) but it is very smooth and when I jump on the accelerator there is no lag. Removing the ECU is easy - about 10-15 minutes, and the number is printed on the top.

HTH,
-aj

#31

This sounds like a classic ICV problem. Which could be a sticky ICV (remove and clean with carb cleaner) or misadjusted or bad TPS.

#32

Hey guys,

After deleting the A/C and cleaning up a bit today, i see that someone has shortcutted the fuel cooling part and just looped a short rubber hose at the ends of the hardlines that span the engine bay. I’m going to delete the hard lines. Just to double check, can you guys confirm that the hose that feeds from the fuel pump to the engine bay hard line is infact long enough to reach the FPR? Just want to double check.

The cooler or whatever seems to be gone.

Thanks a lot

#33

leggwork wrote:

[quote]on that pelican parts web site that I listed above you will find a table with all the ecu’s and the full bosch part number beginning with 0 261 … that should be on the upper surface of the computer case.
cheers,
bruce[/quote]

OK, so today, when removing the glovebox, I found my ECU - a "153" variant. However, I was originally stumped the other night because I was looking under the driver’s side of the dash and there is a Bosch box with a 0 261 xxx part number. What is that?

#34

I think the cruise control is the only other thing over there. Did it have a blue connector on the back?

#35

jlevie wrote:

I’ve had a lumpy idle for a while and cleaned the ICV. No better.

Roundel had a Tech Tip letter about this. I read it but threw away that issue, the latest I think. Does anyone have that issue lying around? What are the specifics? I also remember something about low torque, which is also a problem in my car.

Carter

#36

the ABS control computer is over on the driver’s side under the dash
cheers,
bruce

erupert66 wrote:

[quote]
OK, so today, when removing the glovebox, I found my ECU - a "153" variant. However, I was originally stumped the other night because I was looking under the driver’s side of the dash and there is a Bosch box with a 0 261 xxx part number. What is that?[/quote]

#37

Carter wrote:

[quote]jlevie wrote:

I’ve had a lumpy idle for a while and cleaned the ICV. No better.

Roundel had a Tech Tip letter about this. I read it but threw away that issue, the latest I think. Does anyone have that issue lying around? What are the specifics? I also remember something about low torque, which is also a problem in my car.

Carter[/quote]

I think your low torque problem is coming from your MAFS. Is it the original?

#38

It is. I’ll try a different one on the chassis dyno later this month.

Carter

#39

Carter wrote:

[quote]It is. I’ll try a different one on the chassis dyno later this month.

Carter[/quote]Carter, don’t forget your pull at Mid-Oand that crazy oscillation in the trace. The Dyno guy said that is caused by some electrical (interference maybe) issues. Clean up the grounds particularly the oil pan to chassis one.

#40

Dan - it is long enough, but you probably want to replace it if it is the original - 5/16 fuel line works fine, but I believe the original is 8 mm.

Ed