Aero


#21

King Tut wrote:

In my experience, it helps at tracks with high speed, steady state sweepers. I don’t consider T1 and T12 at Road Atlanta, for example, to be that kind of turn because you pick up grip as the car compresses up the hill in 1 and down the hill in 12.

Definitely add an airdam. Splitter maybe. Definitely not in the first year of racing if you are like me. I saw lots of pretty countryside at VIR, CMP, Road Atlanta, etc. that would have ripped a splitter right off. Make it robust enough and it will rip important stuff off too.


#22

The sway bar is a spring…right. However, it should have no preload on it what so ever at ride height with driver in the car. That said, aero should have absolutely no effect on the sway bar. The only time the sway bar comes into play is when there is opposite displacement of the front rear wheels…that is, in a corner. Aero does not displace the front wheels, ergo, no effect on the bar. CB


#23

Let’s see, turn at T1, RA to the center of the corner…85mpm. Speed under the bridge T12…108+…you want push there? CB


#24

dmwhite wrote:

I don’t know. It’s hard to get objective data on anything. It’s easy to get sucked into the “I made/bought a mod, therefore it’s good.” With the splitter/undertray the car seem to settle itself unusually quickly after taking the bump at CMP’s kink. But I could be fooling myself.

Guys that are good, like, well, you, can be consistant right at the edge of the traction limit. Therefore you are able to sense setup changes more easily then someone who isn’t as consistant. Like me.

A man has to know his limitations. But if you need snappy one-liners and help selecting a fine beer, then I’m the guy.


#25

cwbaader wrote:

No, and those of us who drive Spec E30s don’t have it there. :laugh:


#26

cwbaader wrote:

:blink: Aero adds weight, which changes ride height. A sway bar doesn’t get preload from differing ride heights (which is what the downforce of aero creates), it gets it from different load side to side. That’s why sway bars are nice on the street. You hit a bump that affects both wheels the same, and the suspension can be nice and compliant, but the sway bar kees the car from wallowing over in the turns.

F*ck it. This is silly.


#27

Steve D wrote:
Aero adds weight[/quote]

technically aero adds force, not weight (weight generally being equated with mass). which i only mention because i want to start an engineer fight :slight_smile:

my 89 car doesn’t have any sort of front airdam at all, the front lip was removed by the PO and certainly nothing like the earlier cars have, plus my front ride height is a smidgen higher than most other cars for one reason or another. i’ve not driven anyone else’s car for comparison but it does seem to push more at high speed than low speed. i’ve understeered four off at both RA turn 1 and the kink at CMP (the latter while behind jones, same speed) and while is far more likely that those were due to driver error i do wonder just a tiny bit if physics isn’t working against me.

http://cerient.net/photos/spec_e30/jan27/josh_pics/jasons-spec-e30-003.jpg.html

http://cerient.net/photos/spec_e30/feb2010_bmwcca_road_atlanta/BMW CCA Race Feb 2010 - Sunday 33.JPG.html


#28

Ranger wrote:

This is where data acquisition is critical. Sometimes when something feels faster, it’s not. That is something that’s easy to get sucked in to i think. You have to let the data tell you if it’s faster or not, you can’t go by feel alone. On many occasions, I have made setup changes that made the car feel better (easier to drive and felt faster) but it slowed the car down.

Also, changes (aero, suspension setup, etc) can make a car faster in some areas and slower in others so you’ll have to see what the net gain/loss is for the whole track before you make a final decision.

I guess the point to my rambling is that you have to figure out what works for you/your car. You can’t really decide on whether you need a splitter or not because a GRM article said your car probably has a net lift at the rear. If the splitter is making you or your car faster, then who cares what any magazine says?

and there will ALWAYS be a need/demand for that in racing! :wink:


#29

Steve D wrote:

Nuh-uh!


#30

Steve D wrote:

[quote]Ranger wrote:

OK - one last try then I have to get some work done. :wink:

The sway bar is a spring. (See? Chuck and I do agree on some things. :laugh: )

A thinner diameter bar is ‘softer’ (in racer parlance). A bar with longer legs on the U is softer. A bar carrying more weight is softer. By softer, we mean it is less able to transfer weight from the inside wheel to the outside wheel because the bar is deflecting. Hence, that outside wheel is farther from reaching its limits of adhesion. Ergo, no pushy pushy.

Short of self-producing various sets of bars (I figure a 45-60 bar run with different ‘leg’ lengths would give you 3-4 bar choices and would meet the rules requirement), we are stuck with the commercially-available, non-adjustable, spec-diameter bar. The only way I know you can adjust the spring rate of that bar is with wheel spacers and weight (whether that weight be static or aero).

[/quote]
It’s confusing to think of the sway bar as a spring.

Think of a sway bar as a means to resist roll. The reason you want to resist roll is because body roll results in positive camber on the outside wheel in a turn. The problem with the sway bar is that in order to resist roll it steals traction. It lifts the inside tire and pushes the outside tire down. The inside tire loses more grip then the outside tire gains.

Stiffer bars resist roll more then softer bars. It doesn’t matter too much how you got it softer…maybe it’s thinner or maybe it has longer legs, softer is softer.

Springs impact body roll too so there is an important interaction between the spring and sway bar. There is less interaction between shocks and the sway bar because shocks are velocity devices whereas springs and swaybars are position devices.

Center of roll resistance. As long as the body is fairly stiff, the car will roll as a unit and not twist longitudinally. That means that you can choose to resist body roll at the front or rear. A stiff rear sway bar moves the car’s “center of roll resistance” rearward. Since sway bars steal grip, moving the car’s center of roll resistance rearward (stiff rear bar) means you are stealing grip from the rear.

So stiffening the rear bar resists body roll. Reduced body roll means wheel camber is preserved and the tires are less likely to go to positive camber. But you stole traction from the rear to do it. By stiffening the front sway bar instead, you could have stolen front traction in order to reduce body role. By playing with each you can turn an understeering car into an over steering car. Even someone as clumsy as me can feel a 5mm change in rear sway bar length.

Consider the case where both front and rear swar bars are too thin for your gripper tires and high center mass. This means too much body roll and your grippy tires go to positive camber

If your sway bars are too thick then in turns you end up with -1deg camber and you steal a lot of traction to do it. Softer sway bars (meaning thinner or longer) would put you at neutral camber in hard turns and not steal so much traction. And neutral camber is the objective because that maximizes grip.

Interaction between sway bars, springs and shocks. This is where experience comes in. You know, the stuff I lack. All I have is book-reading. The suspension is a system and there are interactions between all elements. It takes a lot of experience to choose good combinations of sway bar, spring, and shock. Our situation is vastly simplified by our tight ruleset.

Re. the bar carrying more weight is softer. That’s sort of right, but for us I’m not sure that it matters much. If you remove 100lbs from a car then it’s desire to roll (this kind of force is called a “Moment” ) is reduced. So a softer sway bar would resist rolln as well on the lighter car as the stiffer sway bar resisted roll on the heavier car. If you leave the stiff bar on the lighter car, you have, in effect, stiffened the bar. And, of course, the stiffer bar stole more traction.

Re. “A bar carrying more weight is softer. By softer, we mean it is less able to transfer weight from the inside wheel to the outside wheel because the bar is deflecting.” This isn’t correct. The bar only knows about a difference in the load on each wheel. Additional weight on the bar doesn’t cause it to deflect more. Additional weight just causes the bar to rotate in the bushings that attach it to the frame.

Damn website hosed my post. It logged me out after I hit Submit. But I’ve learned it’s nasty ways and I’d copied the post just in case.


#31

TheRedBaron wrote:

[quote]Steve D wrote:

Nuh-uh![/quote]
How 'bout now?


#32

dmwhite wrote:[quote]

and there will ALWAYS be a need/demand for that in racing! ;)[/quote]
And that’s really why I’m tolerated. Ah, so far.

Re. Making changes based on GRM’s article. I agree with everything you said. However I have to recognize when I know what I’m doing and when I’ve not the first clue. And when I’ve not the first clue, I have to listen carefully to folks that do seem to know what they are doing/talking about.

All one can do is listen to folks that seem to know what they are saying, consider the physics behind their contention, and either buy into it or not. When the GRM article says that most passenger cars are light in the rear, all I can do is weigh that against my vast background of aero engineering (a single semester of fluid dynamics), and decide. I buy the guy’s point. I think that our center of aero pressure is forward of the car’s center mass. The air flow would go over our roof separate over our back window and then create a low pressure zone over our trunk. Our wimpy little rear spoiler would help, but not enough. Therefore I think that we have net front downforce and adding more front downforce would just imbalance the car.

Yes, I thought that the car handled a little better. But I trust the physics more then I trust my butt dyno. Physics is never wrong. If it seems to be wrong, it’s only because a person is missing something. My butt dyno doesn’t know it’s ass from a hole in the ground. Is that a pun?

I think that my splitter/undertray was an interesting experiement, but in the end was a bad idea. I challenge anyone to show me a pro car with an OEM profile that seems to have decided that the optimum aero solution is to add front downforce without any effort to add rear downforce.


#33

I assume the splitter design would be slightly different whether I had an early car or a late car, correct?

Does the splitter effect the airflow through the radiator significantly?


#34

OriginalSterm wrote:

[quote]I assume the splitter design would be slightly different whether I had an early car or a late car, correct?

Does the splitter effect the airflow through the radiator significantly?[/quote]

A rule change this year pretty much creates parity between the splitter ideas that early and late model cars can try.

Re. Radiator. Not really. A splitter does a couple things. 1) It creates a high pressure zone between it’s top surface and the bumper’s bottom surface. This adds downforce because the new surface is the splitter and it’s pushed down. The bumper was already being pushed up. 2) The splitter reduces the amount of air going under the car. This is a result of separating the high pressure zone in front of the car from the air flow going under the car. It might require some air tunnel testing to really understand the impact of this tho. It probably creates some front downforce if there’s an undertray. Recall that downforce adds drag. Reduced air flow under the car might also reduce drag because there’s so many things in the airflow under our cars.

To be really effective a splitter has to extend several inches in front of the bumper, and since we can’t do that, we’re limited in how much change we can create.

The radiator needs a high pressure zone in front of it, and lots of places for the air to escape behind it. Our big open engine bay allows air to escape nicely under the car, but hood louvres (not legal) in the forward 1/2 of our hood would be ideal so air could escape into the low pressure zone that forms over the hood.


#35

Ranger wrote:

[quote]Re. Making changes based on GRM’s article. I agree with everything you said. However I have to recognize when I know what I’m doing and when I’ve not the first clue. And when I’ve not the first clue, I have to listen carefully to folks that do seem to know what they are doing/talking about.

All one can do is listen to folks that seem to know what they are saying, consider the physics behind their contention, and either buy into it or not. When the GRM article says that most passenger cars are light in the rear, all I can do is weigh that against my vast background of aero engineering (a single semester of fluid dynamics), and decide. I buy the guy’s point. I think that our center of aero pressure is forward of the car’s center mass. The air flow would go over our roof separate over our back window and then create a low pressure zone over our trunk. Our wimpy little rear spoiler would help, but not enough. Therefore I think that we have net front downforce and adding more front downforce would just imbalance the car.

Yes, I thought that the car handled a little better. But I trust the physics more then I trust my butt dyno. Physics is never wrong. If it seems to be wrong, it’s only because a person is missing something. My butt dyno doesn’t know it’s ass from a hole in the ground. Is that a pun?

I think that my splitter/undertray was an interesting experiement, but in the end was a bad idea. I challenge anyone to show me a pro car with an OEM profile that seems to have decided that the optimum aero solution is to add front downforce without any effort to add rear downforce.[/quote]

while i think that understanding the theories/physics/engineering behind vehicle dynamics, aero, etc is important (my background is in mechanical engineering also), real world results are what really matters…

it seems that you are only looking at the (theoretical) aerodynamics of the car (in reference to splitter vs no splitter) and not the car as a whole system…while (in theory, according to GRM), e30’s might have a net aero lift at the rear of the car, this ignores all other characteristics of the car that might affect it’s handling and if the car pushes in mid-high speed corners, what can you do to fix it? (front aero, if allowed, is one thing to try)…spec cars, by nature, are typically far from ideal in terms of setup adjustability so you have to try what you can (within the bounds of the rules) to “optimize” them. everything is a compromise on spec cars…if adding a splitter helps the car, even though your engineering background and GRM says it shouldnt, then that’s the way to go…

i guess the bottom line is that people need to figure out what works for them and their cars…

RE. pro cars - which pro series has a very limited (spec) rule set that allows front aero mods and no rear aero mods? pretty tough to try to make the comparison you’re asking for…I will say though, world challenge touring cars have very limited rear aero (those wings suck) but can, and do a good bit for front aero (by comparison)…but, again, that comparison is a stretch as their suspension is very customizable/tunable…


#36

So Scott when are you making the appointment at Windshear or http://www.autoresearchcenter.com


#37

dmwhite wrote:

[quote]Ranger wrote:

[quote]Re. Making changes based on GRM’s article. I agree with everything you said. However I have to recognize when I know what I’m doing and when I’ve not the first clue. And when I’ve not the first clue, I have to listen carefully to folks that do seem to know what they are doing/talking about.

All one can do is listen to folks that seem to know what they are saying, consider the physics behind their contention, and either buy into it or not. When the GRM article says that most passenger cars are light in the rear, all I can do is weigh that against my vast background of aero engineering (a single semester of fluid dynamics), and decide. I buy the guy’s point. I think that our center of aero pressure is forward of the car’s center mass. The air flow would go over our roof separate over our back window and then create a low pressure zone over our trunk. Our wimpy little rear spoiler would help, but not enough. Therefore I think that we have net front downforce and adding more front downforce would just imbalance the car.

Yes, I thought that the car handled a little better. But I trust the physics more then I trust my butt dyno. Physics is never wrong. If it seems to be wrong, it’s only because a person is missing something. My butt dyno doesn’t know it’s ass from a hole in the ground. Is that a pun?

I think that my splitter/undertray was an interesting experiement, but in the end was a bad idea. I challenge anyone to show me a pro car with an OEM profile that seems to have decided that the optimum aero solution is to add front downforce without any effort to add rear downforce.[/quote]

while i think that understanding the theories/physics/engineering behind vehicle dynamics, aero, etc is important (my background is in mechanical engineering also), real world results are what really matters…

it seems that you are only looking at the (theoretical) aerodynamics of the car (in reference to splitter vs no splitter) and not the car as a whole system…while (in theory, according to GRM), e30’s might have a net aero lift at the rear of the car, this ignores all other characteristics of the car that might affect it’s handling and if the car pushes in mid-high speed corners, what can you do to fix it? (front aero, if allowed, is one thing to try)…spec cars, by nature, are typically far from ideal in terms of setup adjustability so you have to try what you can (within the bounds of the rules) to “optimize” them. everything is a compromise on spec cars…if adding a splitter helps the car, even though your engineering background and GRM says it shouldnt, then that’s the way to go…

i guess the bottom line is that people need to figure out what works for them and their cars…
[/quote]
I entirely agree. But the difference between you and me is that you trust your consistancy, and you trust your ability to hear the car whispering to you. That sums up to you trust your ability to detect subtle setup changes. I don’t trust my ability to do any of that.

What I have to do is spend a bunch of time trying to understand if a change makes sense. Then I’ll do it and spend a bunch of time trying to figure out…Can I detect the change…yes or no. Can I trust my answer, yes or no. Is the change good, yes or no. Can I trust that answer, yes or no. And because neither my driving, tires or engines are consistant, it’s hard to even trust my data.

2yrs ago I screwed around with my rear sway settings. I was delighted and astounded to find that I could detect 5mm changes. I had thought that I wouldn’t notice the difference.

I think that the answer, or at least my answer, is just to not take it too seriously. I read some interesting stuff, screw around with some mods, try to figure out if they were useful. Maybe something comes of it, maybe not. But whatever the project was, it was interesting, I learned some more, and now it’s time for a beer.


#38

Ranger wrote:

[quote]King Tut wrote:

[quote] Some days Hermann the engineer wins, and some days he doesn’t.[/quote]You are a smart SOB - a bonefide Herman the German reference


#39

Steve D wrote:

[quote]Ranger wrote:

OK - one last try then I have to get some work done. :wink:

The sway bar is a spring. (See? Chuck and I do agree on some things. :laugh: )

A thinner diameter bar is ‘softer’ (in racer parlance). A bar with longer legs on the U is softer. A bar carrying more weight is softer. By softer, we mean it is less able to transfer weight from the inside wheel to the outside wheel because the bar is deflecting. Hence, that outside wheel is farther from reaching its limits of adhesion. Ergo, no pushy pushy.

Short of self-producing various sets of bars (I figure a 45-60 bar run with different ‘leg’ lengths would give you 3-4 bar choices and would meet the rules requirement), we are stuck with the commercially-available, non-adjustable, spec-diameter bar. The only way I know you can adjust the spring rate of that bar is with wheel spacers and weight (whether that weight be static or aero).

PS - That new track width measurement procedure should be good for another 1-1/2" of track width, I’d guess. I haven’t gotten my bag of flour out yet.:blink: :woohoo:[/quote]I do like this argument


#40

Ranger wrote:

[quote] 2yrs ago I screwed around with my rear sway settings. I was delighted and astounded to find that I could detect 5mm changes. I had thought that I wouldn’t notice the difference.
[/quote]
If you stayed belted in the car and had someone else move the bar 5 mm, you wouldn’t be able to tell them which way they moved it.

Reminds me of a prep shop in the greater Daytona area who had a particularly picky customer on a test day. Finally, they ended up just banging on the exhaust and telling the guy they moved the bar. He said it handled much better.:laugh:

This thread illustrates the difference between “acqusition of information” and “learning”. :stuck_out_tongue: :wink: :laugh: