A few general questions

#21

10,000lb Class IV. Lots of safety margin is a comfort.

#22

Ranger wrote:

I read somewhere if you get one that is rated higher than the load you are towing it can result in a very stiff ride.

#23

[quote]Ranger wrote:

10,000lb Class IV. Lots of safety margin is a comfort.

I read somewhere if you get one that is rated higher than the load you are towing it can result in a very stiff ride. [/quote]

Are you talking hitch capacity, or trailer.:unsure: Seems to be a little confusion of what is being discussed. Hitch definitely should be class IV. More capacity is better regarding the hitch. On the other hand, don’t go overboard with the trailer capacity. I have a 10,000# equipment trailer that I used once. Damn thing bounced around so much that it just about came off the ball. It was designed to carry a skidsteer…not a lightweight car. Springs are WAY too stiff and to me, that is a safety issue. The one I use, and prefer, is a 7k open trailer. (Although I would love an enclosed trailer) I can’t imagine overloading it…even with spare tires, tools, etc. Pulls easier, straighter and with less tugging on the tow vehicle.

A weight distribution hitch is a great idea. I have one for towing my 27’ travel trailer. Most of the time, I can’t even tell that I am towing anything. Tow vehicle is an '04 Dodge Ram 1500 with the factory tow package and…yeah, it’s got a Hemi.:woohoo:

#24

My hitch is a class IV hitch. The tow vehicle is a Nissan Armada which is rated to 9100lb GTW and . The trailer is rated to 10,000lbs. The empty weight of the trailer is about 4200lbs, so with the car and associated tools and doodads, I would be surprised if it got even close to 8000lbs. I read that a weight distributing system that had a higher rating than the load you carry could cause undue stiffness in the ride as it was trying to balance a larger load than is actually being towed. I really don’t have any experience in towing so I’m not sure if that makes a huge difference when talking about an 8000lb vs 100000lb distributing hitch.

Andy

#25

Try airing down the trailer tires to keep it from bouncing around so much, you don’t have to run max air and check the tire temp by hand during a pull they should be warm not hot, adjust according.

bodeecat wrote:

[quote][quote]Ranger wrote:

10,000lb Class IV. Lots of safety margin is a comfort.

I read somewhere if you get one that is rated higher than the load you are towing it can result in a very stiff ride. [/quote]

Are you talking hitch capacity, or trailer.:unsure: Seems to be a little confusion of what is being discussed. Hitch definitely should be class IV. More capacity is better regarding the hitch. On the other hand, don’t go overboard with the trailer capacity. I have a 10,000# equipment trailer that I used once. Damn thing bounced around so much that it just about came off the ball. It was designed to carry a skidsteer…not a lightweight car. Springs are WAY too stiff and to me, that is a safety issue. The one I use, and prefer, is a 7k open trailer. (Although I would love an enclosed trailer) I can’t imagine overloading it…even with spare tires, tools, etc. Pulls easier, straighter and with less tugging on the tow vehicle.

A weight distribution hitch is a great idea. I have one for towing my 27’ travel trailer. Most of the time, I can’t even tell that I am towing anything. Tow vehicle is an '04 Dodge Ram 1500 with the factory tow package and…yeah, it’s got a Hemi.:woohoo:[/quote]

#26

Hey Andy how did putting that windshield in go? I did mine with the help of my dad in about 10 minutes BUT that stupid rubber seal that goes inside the channel is a b#$%*. I am still trying to get that in, I think I will be calling the local glass company tomorrow.

#27

BHey wrote:

I haven’t tried putting it back in yet. It’s amazing how much easier it is to work on a car with no windshield. I can use the dash as somewhere to keep my tools! I’ll probably try and put it back in a week or so. I will let you know.

Andy